I own up to my love for older cemeteries, in particular Victorian ones. After stumbling across Brompton Cemetery for the first time, I learnt about London’s Magnificent Seven. These are seven cemeteries “within a crow’s flight of Saint Paul’s cathedral” (9 km), all established privately in the 19th century. During the 1800s, London was the largest city in the world. Its population increased from one million to 2.3 million throughout the century – more living, more dead.
Several problems arose. There were too many burials in the churchyards within the city limits, and decaying matter contaminated water supplies, which in turn led to severe epidemics. Furthermore, a culture of grave-robbing had been established – for clothes, jewellery and the bodies themselves, to be sold to anatomy students and professors. And lastly, British visitors to Paris became impressed by Cimetière du Père-Lachaise – they would not be less than the French.
And thus, as many as eight new cemeteries were established in the outskirts of London. The seven left today – most in use – are called The Magnificent Seven. They became private endeavours, competing against each other to sell plots where people would build their graves. During Victorian times, “pretty” graves were their way of marketing, as it was usual to just go walk in cemeteries – so they had to look “inviting”. Hanging around cemeteries was a very socially-accepted past time due to all the romantic influence.
Though not the first to open, the most famous of these private ventures is probably Highgate Cemetery. Designed by architect Stephen Geary, it was dedicated (basically, opened) in 1839, and it became quite popular – with eye-catching sculpture, architecture, trees, shrubbery, wildflowers… It was not to everybody’s tastes, of course – writer H.G. Wells (who, with permission of Jules Verne, is considered “the father of science fiction”), despised the “cheap urns and obelisks” overpopulation there. The cemetery was abandoned in the 1970s when the company that owned it went bankrupt, and in 1981 the charity Friends of Highgate Cemetery Trust acquired ownership. The cemetery is divided in two areas – the West cemetery is the older one, built uphill; the East cemetery is the newer one.
Admission is required, unless you have a “grave pass” or are attending a funeral. I had a ticket for a guided tour at 10:30, since after how huge and overwhelming Père-Lachaise felt, I had decided that the difference between plain admission and a tour was not that steep.
I got up around 8:00, still feeling a bit queasy, and headed for Costa Coffee for a vanilla latte and a cookie, which I finished on my way to the underground. After figuring out the Tube changes – the Northern line bifurcates and comes together a few times – I arrived at Archway, and walked the rest of the way. I reached the cemetery gates just before opening time at 10:00 (I had planned to be there at 9:45, so not bad), and a nice lady took my name and gave me my paper ticket. I had booked the Highlights Tour, which takes you around the West Side of the cemetery, but allows you to do a “self-guided tour” at will through both sides.
I used my first 30 minutes to wander around the East Side, I visited the grave of Douglas Adams, a writer to whom ball pens are offered, and philosopher Karl Marx. The East Side is more modern and thus a few contemporary “celebrities” are interred there.
Then I headed off towards the West Side, the most Victorian area. The guide was actually pretty lovely, but the actual “highlights” side of the tour was a bit too swallow for my taste – more anecdotal than anything else. The guide took us to see several “pretty” or unusual graves, but the information was mostly about the people buried there, and not the art. Thus, I feel that we did not get a real taste of the actual Victorian cemetery. The most interesting area in Highgate West Side is the Egyptian Avenue, leading to the Lebanon Circle – so called because of a tree that grew in the centre, though it had to be cut down due to sickness and a new one planted. The guided tour is also the only way to visit the Catacombs and Terrace, which are otherwise closed. Unfortunately, our visit here was cut short due to a classroom of primary-schoolers coming in and trying to scare each other.
Overall, the burial site is a nice place, but I was a bit unimpressed… I think that Highgate is the cemetery that people who do not usually visit cemeteries go to, and thus the fame. I was really expecting more spectacular funerary architecture and sculpture, especially after visiting Brompton. Or maybe I was still feeling a bit off, and I did not enjoy the visit as much as I hoped, so I might have to go back, eventually – after I’ve visited all the remaining Magnificent Seven.
I undid my way and took the underground back to central London. I had promised myself to stop by Leicester Square to get the mug I had loved, so I visited the M&M’s Store London, where I became the proud owner of an I’m afraid of what might happen if I relax bright orange mug. I thought about having some warm lunch in Chinatown, but it started raining, so I decided to head to the station and either have lunch or take my train over there.
I was thirsty but not hungry, so I bought a smoothie and went on towards the airport – the trip went without a hitch, unlike the previous time. As I was about to go through security, I was redirected to the new scanners that they are testing, where you don’t need to take your shoes off nor put your liquids or electronics on a separate tray. I did not beep nor was stopped, but it looked like if you do, you go through heavier scrutiny.
Stansted Airport has an Itsu restaurant, which is a Japanese / healthy-fast-food fusion chain, which I always visit when flying through there. I wanted sushi, but I felt like something warm, so I got some chicken & spring onion gyoza, a bowl of miso soup, and a bottle of coke that finally helped set my stomach. There is a Lego Store at the airport, but it had no stamps. That was a bit of a bummer.
My plane got delayed for an hour, so as I waited I also got a yoghurt. I discovered that I severely dislike people who use “quiet areas” to hold video conferences or phone calls. There was no explanation for the delay, but there was no issue with the flight once the plane was there. After landing, I reached passport control and they directed me to the machines, which had a long waiting queue, so I just asked if I could go through the empty manual checks. I was able to – yay – and as soon as I reached the shuttle stop, the bus arrived. When I reached the parking lot I was easily able to sort the problem of the licence plate not being detected, though I took a bit longer to find the car – it turns out I’m not a good directions-memoriser at 5:00. Thus, despite the delay, I was able to get out of the parking lot on time and was home around 23:00, ready to shower and sleep, in order to get ready and recover, considering I had another trip coming in less than 10 days.
All in all, not trusting the airport nor public transport systems turned out to be productive, even if a bit more expensive – obviously, with an extra hotel night – than usual. However, since Brexit I’ve been seeing more and more transport issues in London. Miyavi’s was the first concert by a Japanese artist I’ve attended after the pandemic, and it was extremely enjoyable, even if there was a bit of a price to pay afterwards. It’s nice to be reminded of the good things in the world.
JBinnacle – A Travel Logbook 