10th October 2024: The Trojan Horse & Bursa {Türkiye, October 2024}

We had to leave by 5:30 to go see the Trojan Horse. The reason why I had chosen this particular circuit was because it included “Troy”. The only thing I got to see of Troy was the Truva Heykeli Trojan Statue, – the horse which was used by Warner’s Bros to film the movie Troy in 2004. Not a damn ruin, not a damn rock, let alone be near the archaeological site. Damn it, did I choose the circuit badly or what? I do wonder what people thought of us taking structures of the stupid thing at 6:40 in the morning. As we drove north, we saw the Galipoli Peninsula, place of a huge battle between the Ottoman Empire and New Zealand and Australia regiments belonging as part of the British troups.

Çanakkale Trojan horse

We continued towards the city of Bursa, the first capital of the Ottoman Empire, and another of the World Heritage Sites – Bursa and Cumalıkızık: the Birth of the Ottoman Empire. It started off as a settlement around 5,200 BCE, which evolved into a Greek city. Under the Byzantine reign, it was a city known for its garrisons and its silk manufacturing centre. It is considered the origin of the Ottoman Empire, and throughout the period, it flourished through its local silk production. Following the foundation of modern Türkiye, it became an industrial city.

Our first stop was the Grand Mosque of Bursa Bursa Ulu Cami. Its first stone was set in 1399 an important building in the early Ottoman architecture as it found its own style. It is a rectangular building with a fountain from the 19th century at the centre – originally this area was open but it is now closed with glass, forming a skylight. It has two minarets. The interior is mostly white, but at the same time, quite decorated with calligraphy, medallions and vegetal themes.

Interior of the Great Mosque Bursa

Then we drove to the Green Mosque Yeşil Camii complex. It was commissioned in 1412 by Sultan Mehmed I Çelebi, who is buried in the adjacent Green Tomb Yeşil Türbe – along with his children and their caretakers. Both the mosque and the mausoleum have beautiful decoration in blue-green tiles with gold inserts, which create the motifs and calligraphic inscriptions.

Mihrab of the Green Mosque Bursa

Bursa Green Tomb

Next to the mosque stands a building which calls itself a Silk House, but is just a huge souvenir shop, nothing even close to the actual Silk Bazaar. Afterwards, we went for lunch, lentil soup and a traditional Bursa kebap İskender kebap, making this another sort-of actual Turkish meal. It uses meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie (döner kebap) on pita bread, with tomato sauce, yoghurt and sheep’s milk butter – which was poured at the table. Dessert was a honey pastry.

İskender kebap

Then we continued off back to Istanbul | İstanbul. We got there around 16:00 and I was considering maybe heading out to a church-turned-mosque to see some of the most important museums but… at that point it felt more like a self-imposed obligation that something I really wanted to do because I would enjoy it? It was more of a feeling of “you should do it because you are not going to come back to this country”. But the truth was that I really did not want to do it. I was disappointed in the whole trip experience, and in a way, I did not… I don’t know… care anymore? No balloon over Cappadocia, not enough time for Pamukkale travertines, no Troy. Whatever.

The nice group from the trip invited me to hang out with them for a walk. Together, we walked to the Grand Bazaar Kapalı Çarşı. Then we continued towards Sultanahmet Square Sultanahmet Meydanı, from where we crossed Gülhane Park Gülhane Parkı until we reached the coastline İBB Sarayburnu Parkı, the point in which the Golden Horn and Bosphorous Strait come together. On our way back, we stopped around Sultanahmet Square Sultanahmet Meydanı to take some pictures.

Gülhane Park at night

Bosphorous at night

Sultanahmed square at night

Finally, I headed back to my hotel – Hotel Bi·setun, the same as the first two nights – to order dinner, have a shower and get ready for the return trip.

9th October 2024: The Asclepieion & the beach {Türkiye, October 2024}

We left around 8:00 towards Pergamon Ancient City Pergamon Antik Kenti, another of Türkiye’s World Heritage sites – Pergamon and its Multi-Layered Cultural Landscape, still in the city of Izmir | İzmir (in Türkiye, “city” and “province” are interchangeable, apparently). The origin of the city dates back to the 8th century BCE – though there were legends about a mythological foundation by the son of Heracles. Pergamon flourished and became the capital of its own kingdom, until it eventually fell in Roman’s hands. The most important archaeological area is the acropolis – though the Great Altar, which is currently located in the Pergamon Museum of Berlin, in Germany. I had had a tired / silly moment the night before and packed the camera battery charger with the battery still in it, and I almost had a heart attack when the camera would not work. Fortunately, it made a lot of sense after I opened the battery receptacle.

We did not get to go to the Upper or Lower Acropolis, but we could see the theatre, one of the steepest theatres in the world – built in the 3rd century BCE with capacity for about 10,000 people. We stayed down at the foot of the acropolis, in the Sanctuary of Asclepius Asclepieion [Ἀσκληπιεῖον] – a healing temple dedicated to the demigod Asclepius, the demigod who learnt the art of medicine from the centaur Chiron and became the first doctor in “history”.

The Asclepieion worked with a holistic approach to patient care, giving thought to tranquillity, water, and activities such an art and theatre performances. The theatre is one of the best-preserved structures in the Asclepieion of Pergamon, though there are many others – such as 70 metre long cryptoporticus a tunnel that connected the baths, sacred pools – with a healthy population of frogs and tortoises – and fountains. I also found a lizard chilling out – or baking out, considering the temperature (remember, I had packed for… autumn, not for almost 30 ºC at noon every day…). Some famous ruins include

Pergamon Asclepieion ruins

Pergamon Asclepieion tortoises and lizard

Pergamon Asclepieion theatre

I wandered around for as long as I could, but again here was no time to explore everything – though this time I came pretty close. We left at around 12:30. This was the only visit we had on the day, as we were directly driven to the hotel in Çanakkale. On the way, we saw the Red Basilica Kızıl Avlu just before leaving Izmir, and glimpsed the island of Lesbos from the bus.

Iris Hotel was in the middle of a residential area – to the point that the bus barely passed through some of the streets. There was nothing interesting around to see in kilometres, so to… compensate, I guess, the hotel had a small mini zoo of deer and fowl.

Sunset at Çanakkale beach

Behind the hotel there was a private beach with a stunning sunset, but nothing around to explore or do. Çanakkale is located to the west of Türkiye, at the end of the Dardanelles Çanakkale Boğazı, the natural straight that joins the Aegean Sea with the Sea of Marmara, just south of Istanbul. The sea was warm, but I only got in up to my knees. At night, I watched a monster movie in Turkish. That… was an experience.

2nd – 11th October 2024: “Turquía Única” – A circuit in Türkiye {Türkiye, October 2024}

At the end of an already crazy, crazy work period, I had a very bad project. I determined to spend all the income from that one project on a big trip. However, at the same time, I was too exhausted to do a lot of planning. I decided to book a circuit, and since China was about 7,000 € above my budget, I ended up choosing to visit Türkiye. It also felt like a good moment to do so, before tensions in the Middle East escalate even further than they have, and while the country is still somewhat laic and not the Islamic Republic it seems on the path to turn into.

I booked my trip in August for October as that was when work would be over for the year. The only thing left was crossing fingers for good weather, and survive work till then.

Overall, the experience was on the wrong side of disappointing. The tour I chose looked good on paper, but it turned out to be badly managed and even more badly implemented. I’m not even a food-driven traveller, but none of the places we visited offered much in regards of Turkish dishes except the same sweets over and over again. Most hotels were falling apart – literally – and in the middle of nowhere, so when we arrived there around 18:00 at the latest, there was nothing around to explore. On top of that, pure bad luck this time, my flight connection were rather inconvenient – I arrived late on my first day in Istanbul, and left early on my last, so there was no way to enjoy those days.

One of the big problems I ran into was the diffusion of responsibility, as I booked a trip from Viajes El Corte Inglés, distributed by MapaTours and implemented by the local Oxin Travel, whose guides were… let’s say lacking.

I was excited when my travel agent called to give the documentation, a couple of weeks before the adventure started. There were some errors in formatting, and a reference to a photograph which was not there – I tried not to worry about that. A link can easily break when paperwork is prepared for printing. It was a sign (or a metaphor) for all the small things that would go wrong, I see now.

I am aware that I come from an incredibly privileged place, complaining about a nine-day to Türkiye. However, I paid for a service I did not receive, and that miffs me. On top of everything, the single supplement was 400€, because Türkiye does not do single rooms whatsoever, almost 20% of the total price excluding extra day trips.

I booked a circuit named Turquía Única (Unique Türkiye), which started and ended in Istanbul. The itinerary included Ankara, the region of Cappadocia, Pammukkale, Izmir, Pergamon, Çanakkale, Bursa and back to Istambul. I landed on the 2nd and returned on the 11th, but I was only up and about between the 3rd and the 10th. I also made the mistake of booking the optional Istanbul day trips trying to avoid long queues at ticket booths and monuments.