23rd October 2024: Brussels & Charleroi Terminal 1 {Belgium October 2024}

Whilst part of me wanted to stay in Antwerp [Anvers | Antwerpen] and visit the chocolate museum Chocolate Factory, it opened too late for me to be comfortable with the later flight schedule. Beside, I had my Art Nouveau Pass. Thus, I headed off back to Brussels [Bruxelles | Brussel], to visit the Musical Instruments Museum Musée des instruments de musique | Muziekinstrumentenmuseum. The museum is located in the former Old England department store, built by Paul Saintenoy in 1899 in the Art Nouveau style, mostly out of glass and girded steel. The building itself was pretty interesting and I found the idea of an “audioguide” with the sounds of each instrument endearing. I spent longer than I thought I would there.

Musical Instrument Museum building

Musical Instrument Museum Brussels

I then headed off towards the central square Grand-Place | Grote Markt to find the third of the typical Belgian foods I wanted to try – moules frites. This dish comes in two servings: one of Belgian fries and another one of boiled mussels. I chose a restaurant called Brasserie Le Cerf that I had checked online the previous night. Since it was still early, I was alone in the place. The mussels can be prepared with a number of add-ons and sauces, but ordered mine plain. I thought it was adequate for the first time. The mussels came boiled with a little celery and leek, and I really liked them. I passed on the Belgian beer, because I’m not a drinker of alcohol. As an appetiser, the restaurant provided bread and butter and everything was lovely.

Moules frites

I wandered a little around the area and I found the shopping area Galeries Royales Saint Hubert, where I saw some lovely chocolate in a cute little Art Nouveau shop – but way out of my budget. I also saw a giant smurf, and considered a second comic exhibition in Horta Gallery. However, I was weary of the fact that my bus had to go around Brussels at the after work rush, so I decided to give myself a wide berth of time to get to the airport Brussels Charleroi. After all, I had been there before and there were plenty of shops and things to do. Unfortunately, that was Terminal 2. This time around my flight left from Terminal 1, which lacks even decent seating space. Whoops. At least there was a toilet and a fountain to get some water.

Around the Grand Place

The flight was on time, but once again I had been assigned an emergency exit seat. I approached the flight attendant to explain that I have reduced mobility on my right arm, and she found someone to exchange seats with me – the biggest guy on the plane, it seemed. He probably enjoyed the extra room and empty seat next to him, and I did not have to stress. Not that I actually expected anything to go wrong, but just in case…

Since I had no checked luggage, once we landed I was out of the terminal quite quickly. I had to wait for the bus to the parking lot for a while, but I was on my merry way and home without issues and with having had great experiences, talked to great people, and met fun artists. And I’ve got a new guitar pick for my very modest collection of (now three) picks!

20th October 2024: Heroes Comic Con & Art Nouveau in Brussels and the Medieval Centre of Bruges {Belgium October 2024}

Just before going to bed to grab a couple of hours’ sleep on the 19th, I did a last check that I had everything ready, and I realised that my parking reservation at the airport had not been processed. It is a good thing that being an Aena member, the price had not gone up outrageously from when I had done it the first time a few months back. I have no idea why it did not work the first time, but I am glad I caught it before I left, because non-reserved parking is three times as much.

I did sleep for a few hours and the alarm clock went off around 3:00 for my 6:20 flight. The drive was uneventful, I found an awesome parking spot, and I had the bus just for myself after a minute of waiting. Security was fast, and it was weird to be in the Schengen side of the terminal for a Ryanair flight. I got on the plane and got some sleep. We landed in Brussels [Bruxelles (French) | Brussel (Dutch)], Belgium [Belgique | België] early, but deplaning took a while. Once outside, I followed the signs for the train and there was one there already. I settled until I got to Brussels Central station, where I bought a coffee, a drink, and a sandwich. I then walked towards the underground station – the coffee was gone even before I was there.

I knew I was in the correct underground line when I started seeing cosplayers and kiddos with superhero merchandise along with their resigned parents. My backpack was not heavy, but I was glad to have a seat both on the train and the underground. I reached the area of Brussels Expo a few minutes before the convention Heroes Comic Con opened for general admission. There was a queue, but instead of getting in line, I walked up to the nearby Atomium.

The Atomium was built as the centrepiece of the Brussels Expo’58. It is credited to architects André Polak and Jean Polak from a project by civil engineer André Waterkeyn. It was designed as a homage to scientific advance, especially nuclear physics, and thus resembles an atom or a molecule. It is 102 metres high, and it comprises nine spheres with a diameter of 18 metres each, joined by tubes and escalators. The Atomium was not designed to survive the Expo it was built for, though. In the mid 2000s, it had to be renovated, and a lot of the original aluminium was replaced by stainless steel.

Brussels Atomium

I contemplated going up the building. However, when I looked at the time, I realised that if I went in, I would be able to get into the first of Misha Collin’s photo shoots. When I decided to buy the tickets, I only bought one picture in the afternoon, because I was not sure what time I would make it to the convention, considering the plane, the train and the underground. But I was there on time so I used my phone to buy an extra ticket for the photo shoot in which Collins would be wearing the outfit from Supernatural’s character Castiel. This also gave me the chance to get the photograph signed during the time between photo shoots. Furthermore, I was still within budget – because I had decided to indulge myself with the money I had originally set aside for a balloon ride in Cappadocia.

I walked into Brussels Expo. The exhibit was huge, but I had a map downloaded on the phone. I was a bit confused when doing my original research, because it turns out that there were actually three conventions going on at the same time – Heroes Comic Con, Made In Asia and Gameforce. However, once there, it was easy to get around. Heroes Comic Con is “a big feast dedicated to pop culture”, so basically a one-size-fits-all big merchandise fair with graphic artists, cosplayers, the whole nine yards, nothing too different from Paris Fan Festival. Heroes Comic Con’s biggest selling point, however, was having invited a number of popular actors – along Misha Collins (real name Dmitri Tippens Krushnic, for the record), other guests were Bob Morley, Eliza Taylor, Ian Somerhalder and Paul Wesley. Some of them… rang a bell. I might even have seen a few of them somewhere – I must have, because I did watch the newer Star Trek. However, I find it great that they had a large following and there were queues for them.

I followed my map towards the photo booths, where they checked my ticket and gave me a bright-coloured chip – they give you a chip per ticket, as you can have two people in one photograph. I was on my own, so no problems there. I actually got two photographs out of the first shoot – so I’ve got three though I paid for two, yay me. I had brought a customised jacket with a pair of angel wings, and the goal was to have them in the photographs, so I would be facing Misha but looking over my shoulder. The first photograph did work out too well, so Misha called me back for a re-shoot. He was very friendly, and much more approachable than my usual Japanese artists. Either that or I was less strung up. The pictures were printed on-site, so I took mine to the autographs area to wait. I had bought an official book beforehand – the lightest thing I had found, to be honest – in case I could not get a photograph signed, but since I this had worked out so well, I had our recent picture – and in the character outfit – to be signed.

Since I had been towards the end of the photograph queue, I did not have to wait long for Misha to come. A staff took my name on a post-it note and attached it to the photograph. When it was your turn, you paid for the autograph (I decided not to get a selfie, because I still had another photograph bought), and I told him about the pure chance I was there. He was “glad I could make it”. As I said, nice and approachable.

By the time I was out of the autograph area it was around 11:40. I decided to wander around. I gravitated towards Made in Asia, and was very strong reminding myself I wanted to keep my luggage light and not pay for any extra. Thus, I managed not to buy anything despite finding a bunch of Saint Seiya merchandise – which I now regret, but that’s FOMO speaking. I had a chuckle or two out of young people complaining about the official good stuff being “too expensive” when I found the shops cheaper than the stands I see in the Spanish counterparts.

Brussels Hero Comic Con

I returned to the photo booth for the second photograph, and I thanked Misha for the chance – I look silly in the picture, but that’s okay. It was great. There was a Q&A with Collins an hour or so later, but I decided to forego that and leave the convention. If I stayed, I would have no time to do anything in Brussels that day. I also wanted to keep on the move because else my body would remember how little slept it had gotten, and I would crash. Thus, I bought an online Art Nouveau pass, and I left the convention.

Brussels’ Art Nouveau Pass is 20 € and it covers entry to three museums, historical places, or exhibitions in a long list, all of them related to – obviously – Art Nouveau. The pass can be value for money even if you only visit two of the “big ones”. Since the pass is valid for nine months, I might be able to use it for a third time in the near future. The original idea was to buy one from the beginning and hit the Comic Museum, the Horta Museum and the Solvay House – things I had not had the time to visit the previous time because in the end I spent a lot of time walking to different spots (read: the Natural History Museum). However, the Solvay House was under renovation, and the Horta Museum was a bit out of the way, so I ended up being flexible

I rode back to Central Station and walked out towards the Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula Cathédrale des Saints Michel et Gudule | Kathedraal van Sint-Michiel en Sint-Goedele, which was beautiful in the flurry of autumn leaves. It was cold, so I hastened towards the Comics Art Museum Musée de la Bande Dessinée | Stripmuseum (Belgian Comic Strip Center). The museum is located in the former textile store Magasins Waucquez, an early 1900s commercial building designed by architect Victor Horta. Horta is considered one of the founders Art Nouveau, with his use of curved forms and use of steel, skylights and open floor plans with abundant decoration.

Brussels cathedral

After the department store closed in the 1970s, the building was listed as a historical site, and it was bought by the Belgian Government to be used in the promotion of comic strips. The museum itself was founded in 1984 as a non-profit, and it opened in 1989. It runs a new permanent exhibition on the history of comics in Belgium and Europe (free from the American Comics Code Authority and censorship – I mention this because I had tickets for a Marvel exhibition the following month, and the CCA had a lot of impact in the development of American comics). The person at reception told me to watch out for a very first-print Tintin which had been recently added to the exhibit. There are items and print issues related to most of the great Belgian comic artists – there were a lot of things I had never even heard about. I found a big lack of Morris’ Lucky Luke though.

Comics Art Museum Brussels

Comics Art Museum Brussels

Something I had decided to do in this trip was trying the typical foods, so once out of the museum I headed towards the central square Grand-Place | Grote Markt and Manneken Pis, which was not wearing any costume this time around, even if Brussels is still under a lot of construction (when I saw it in 2023, it was wearing a reflective jacket). I remembered that there were a lot of places that sold local street food – I don’t tend to be much of a foodie, especially with street food or fish. I figured out that Belgium could be a safe place to experiment without risking an upset stomach.

Brussels Grand Place

Manekken Pis

Thus I got some frites, Belgian fries, at a chain called La Friterie. I had seen a few of the establishments with queues outside, so when this one was almost empty, I jumped at the chance. Belgian fries are sourced from local potatoes and cooked in two goes, traditionally in beef fat. I got them with just salt, and they were really good. And warm. That was a great point.

Belgian Frites

It was around 17:00 by this time, and things had started to close down. I headed off towards the station to take a train to Bruges [Bruges | Brugge], in the north west area of West Flanders. The historic city centre is a Unesco World Heritage Site – Historic Centre of Brugge – and it is criss-crossed with canals. The area has been inhabited since Prehistory, but its importance peaked during the Middle Ages, between the 12th and 15th centuries. It became a commercial hub due to its strategic location between Flanders and France, though it later opened to other countries, like the Portuguese. The first stock exchange in the world probably opened there in 1309.

The Medieval architecture and brick Gothic constructions are exceptionally well preserved, including the pattern of streets intertwined with waterways. I was curious about northern Europe canals, which was one of the reasons why I chose the city. The other one was that it is a city to walk and see from the outside, which was great for a Monday morning. Unless it’s raining and about 7 ºC colder than cool – I had prepared for 13 – 17 ºC and drizzle, and got 9 – 13 ºC and rain. Whoops.

I bought some snacks at the station and went down to the platform. The train was late. I knew it was late, and I knew when it was expected, because the board told me. It was refreshing, considering the uncertainty around Madrid’s trains this last couple of years. I had booked a hotel close to the railway station, and I got there around 19:00. It was quite a basic place, with a toilet, and a shower closed off, and a washbasin column in the middle to separate the wet area from the bed area. Functional, and all right. The heating worked and they spoke English, so all good.

I did not rest for long. I ate the snacks, grabbed my umbrella and an extra layer of clothing, and headed out. It was dark outside already, and I hoped to get to see the city centre lit up for the night. My first stop was the Church of Our Lady Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk. Mostly built between the 13th and the 15th centuries, it is one of the highest Gothic brick structures in the world.

Our Lady, Bruges

Then I headed towards Saint Salvator’s Cathedral Sint-Salvatorskathedraal, a curious mixture of neo-Romanesque and neo-Gothic, with a bell tower that looks more like a defence tower than anything religious. This tower, however, was the result of a 19th-century modification of the original tower. Of course, both churches were closed at this time, but they would open the next morning.

Bruges cathedral

I continued towards the Market Square Grote Markt, featuring the Gothic Provincial Court Provinciaal Hof, the Historium, and the Belfry of Bruges Belfort van Brugge. The Medieval bell tower is doubly World Heritage – it belongs to the Historical Centre Unesco site, but it is also key in the Unesco Belfries of Belgium and France serial property. And while it is not part of the Manual bell ringing intangible Cultural Heritage, Bruges takes a lot of pride in its carillon and its bell ringing. At the centre of the square stands the statue of Pieter de Coninck and Jan Breydel Pieter de Coninck en Jan Breydel, who participated in the Flemish resistance against the French King in 1302.

Bruges Grotemarkt

I also wanted to explore a large park I had seen on my way. It turned out to be two of them, Poertorenpark and Minnewaterpark – which later I found means “Lake of Love Park” – before it was too late in the evening. There I found the Gunpowder Tower Poertoren – built between 1398 and 1401 by Jan Van Oudenaarde, and used as gunpowder store for almost five centuries. Beyond it, the Lake of Love itself Minnewater, the Lovers’ Bridge Minnewaterbrug, “very romantic” stone bridge. I noticed the part about it being stone. It also yielded to a beautiful night view.

Bruges Love Lake park at night

I did not want to stay out too late. Thus, I crossed the Barge bridge Bargebrug to get back to the busy street area. Bargebrug is a modern construction, barely 20 years old, in bold red curves. On the other side there was a “reception area” in the same style, apparently a sort of bus station, and then there was the main road. Afterwards, I just headed back to the hotel and turned in for the day. I watched some TV, but to be honest, I had woken up before 3:00 am, so I zonked out rather quickly.

Bruges Love Lake park at night

24th March 2023: Brussels {Belgium, March 2023}

I woke up stupidly early to catch a short red-eye flight that was in the end delayed by the French air controller’s strike. Crossing security at the airport was a bit of an issue – I got stuck behind a class of teens going somewhere, and kudos to the teacher for not losing it when about 50% of the kids were sent back because they had not taken out their tablets / liquids / bottles of water and so on. Once inside, I had to head towards the Schengen area transit lounges, which were considerably fuller than beyond passport control in the early morning.

I landed in Brussels [Bruxelles (French) | Brussel (Dutch)], Belgium [Belgique | België] around 9:00. At the airport arrival lounge, I was welcomed by a rocket taken out from The Adventures of Tintin, and some fake flowering trees. I found the station – I had booked all my tickets online beforehand – and after a short train ride I reached the centre of Brussels. From the train I caught a glimpse of the famous atom-like building, the Atomium. I found my way to the hotel throughout a chaos of construction, and dropped off my luggage. Then, I set off to explore the city, which is called the comic capital of Europe: up to 50 comic character murals are painted on walls around the city, to the point that there is even a route dedicated to seeing them all – the Brussels’ Comic Book Route. I had not walked 200 m from the hotel when I saw my first mural, Le Scorpion.

I headed towards the Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula Cathédrale des Saints Michel et Gudule | Kathedraal van Sint-Michiel en Sint-Goedele. The current building was erected in the 13th century in Brabantine Gothic, which is a deviation from the French Gothic style that developed in the Low Countries (Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg). It features the use of sandstone or limestone in light colours (unfortunately, these materials are very susceptible to erosion), pointed arches, round columns with decorated “cabbage” capitals, and a very clear cruciform floor plan on churches. Unlike the Spanish cathedrals, there is no choir built in-between, so the perspective of the churches built in this style is fantastic.

The cathedral has two symmetrical front towers with tolling bells. It is accessed from the monumental staircase (built in the 18th century) on the western façade, by one of the gates under the bell towers. It does not feature a round or wheel window, but an ogival one. The nave is wide and lit from all the colourful side windows representing biblical scenes. The pulpit on the side is Baroque, carved in dark wood by the sculptor Hendrik Frans Verbrugge. A lot of the sculptures inside the cathedral are also Baroque, as the originals were destroyed by iconoclast movements (Beeldenstorm) in 1566 – this is a feature along most of the monuments I visited. Along with the Chapel Church and Our Lady of the Sablon, the cathedral is considered one of the three traditionally listed gothic churches in the city of Brussels. The organist was rehearsing, along with a cellist and a female singer, which was cool to hear as I explored. Underneath the cathedral, the archaeological site can be accessed to explore the Romanesque origins of the chapel of St. Michael.

The cathedral of Brussels

After the cathedral, my path took me through the park Parc de Bruxelles | Warandepark, featuring a pretty kiosk in metalwork and a bunch of trees striving to blossom. Along one of the axes of the park, 22 sculptures have been erected for a temporary exhibition “Le Chat déambule” Expo (9th March – 30th June 2023). They feature Le Chat, an anthropomorphic obese cat from a comic strip created by Belgian artist Philippe Geluck. Le Chat ran from 1983 to 2013, comically tackling everyday situations or presenting absurd conclusions.

An obese, anthropomorfic cat on a tutu raising a leg while a mouse uses a jack to keep the cat's leg up.

I continued walking for a bit of a long walk that led me past the Royal Palace of Brussels Palais royal de Bruxelles | Koninklijk Paleis van Brussel and the Monument to Leopold II. I went on until I reached something I felt that I could not have missed – the Museum of Natural Sciences of Belgium Muséum des sciences naturelles de Belgique | Museum voor Natuurwetenschappen van België, part of the Royal Belgian Institute of Natural Sciences. This was on my to-visit map long before this little trip came into plan. The museum’s Dinosaur Gallery is the largest room dedicated to dinosaurs in Europe. It holds a replica of Stan the T-rex (the original one was auctioned a while back and bought into private hands for 32 million USD), a piece of the Mont-Dieu meteorite, similar to the one which might have caused the extinction of dinosaurs, along with a bit of the boundary K-T (Cretaceous-Tertiary) or K-Pg (Cretaceous-Palaeogene) – this is a sedimentary layer of black rock with a lot of iridium that separates the “age of reptiles” and the “age of mammals” in the fossil registry.

There is also a room completely dedicated to mosasaur findings, and a lone Allosaurus fossil called Arkhane, which is considered the only discovered specimen of its species. Allosaurus was a Jurassic carnivore and this skeleton, clocking at almost 9 metres long, comes from Wyoming (US) and is 70% complete. However, this was tucked away in a completely different area of the museum. I also saw a Dunkleosteus head. This one was behind glass and I did not find the information to read if it was a cast, so maybe I found an original one?

Fossils at the Belgian Museum of Natural History: dinosaurs, mosasaurs, the Allosaurus Arkhane, and a massive fish head

The most important feature of the Dinosaur Gallery though is the collection of iguanodon fossils – the Bernissart iguanodons. Iguanodon (meaning “iguana tooth”) was the second dinosaur to receive a name. This herbivore lived from the late Jurassic to the early Cretaceous, and it is thought to have been able to on either two or four legs. In 1878, as many as 38 iguanodon fossils were found in the Bernissart coal mine. Nine are displayed in “wrong” standing positions – what was believed at the time to be correct, called the “kangaroo standing” – and nineteen can be seen partly covered in plaster just as they were found in the mine. The standing skeletons are too fragile to be dismantled now – though early palaeopathologists did the best they could, the skeletons contain a lot of pyrite, which disintegrates in contact with air, so they are extremely brittle. Thus, they are exhibited in a protective chamber as historical testimony. These fossils were the most abundant and complete ever found of the species. They unseated the previous English hegemony on iguanodon knowledge at the time, and one of them became the Iguanodon bernissartensis holotype. Today, one of the skeletons stands outside the case, posed in the modern interpretation of how iguanodon would have moved.

Collage: The iguanodons. The upper picture shows a modern interpretation of the iguanodon on four legs standing in front of the older "kangroo posed" reconstructions. On the bottom, the iguanodons as they were found in the mine.

Other exhibits in the museum include a gallery of evolution (which I saw backwards as it was full of high school kids), a mineral collection, a gallery on humans and human evolution, and a biodiversity collection. They have the preserved body of the last captive Tasmanian tiger that lived, and a small ward about the history of the museum and urban flora and fauna.

Collage. The centre is the mascot of the museum. Around it, a tasmanian tiger, a mammoth skeleton, some rocks and taxidermed animals.

I had lunch halfway through the museum visit, and then set off to the centre of the town, undoing my previous way. By now I had got a hold of the construction detours, and I reached the city centre more easily. I walked past Mont des Arts | Kunstberg next to Central Station, with a very fun clock, and eventually reached the central square Grand-Place | Grote Markt. This central square, declared Unesco Heritage site in 1998, is surrounded by monumental buildings dating from the 15th to the 19th century, forming a particularly recognisable unit: the Town Hall Hôtel de Ville | Stadhuis, a Brabantine gothic building with a spire or tower; the Maison du Roi | Broodhuis in Neogothic style; and the so-called guildhalls and private houses, traditionally built buildings, either crammed together and cutely thin, or almost palatial – including the house where Victor Hugo, the writer, used to live in the city.

Grand Place. The buildings are light coloured or grey with a lot of gold decoration

I went down one of the side streets, debating a typical Belgian waffle, but I was not brave enough to try and eat one on my own. I saw the Adventures of Tintin mural (by Belgian cartoonist Hergé) painted on a wall (art by Oreopoulos and Vandegeerde). About five minutes away from the square, one of the corners hosts the fountain known as Manneken Pis, which depicts a naked little boy urinating into the basin. The current fountain features a replica of the boy, the original (sculpted by Jérôme Duquesnoy the Elder) is in the Brussels City Museum. The one on the fountain is often dressed up, and this time round, it was characterised as a construction worker – I can understand why. One of the many legends about the design tells of a young boy who put out an explosive charge fuse by peeing on it.

Collage. Tintin and Captain Haddock climb down some stairs. Manekken Pis fountain boy dressed in yellow reflective clothing.

I walked on to find another comic mural I was extremely interested in – actually two, but the Astérix mural (by Goscinny and Uderzo) was covered by construction. After a quarter of an hour I found the Lucky Luke mural (by Belgian cartoonist Morris, painted by Oreopoulos and Vandegeerde). When I was a child, I absolutely loved the Lucky Luke animated series, and especially his white horse Jolly Jumper and dog Rantanplan, so this was a bit of a tribute visit, rather than tackling the whole comic route.

Lucky Luke mural. The Daltons have robbed a bank and Luke prepares to arrest them (again)

On my way back towards the city centre, I stopped by a number of points of interest – the Baroque church and convent Église Notre Dame aux Riches-Claires; a mural by artist Mr.Doodle called Mr. Doodle Artwork; the late 19th century market Halles Saint-Géry; the 12th century church Église Saint-Nicolas; a “parody” of the Manneken Pis depicting a dog doing the same Zinneke Pis; and the Brussels Stock Exchange Bourse de Bruxelles (under renovation).

Collage showing different buildings in Brussels, and a bronze medium-sized dog peeing on a bollard

As I was making my way back towards the Grand-Place, the weather, which had been behaving most of the day – there had been some rain while I was inside the museum – took a turn for the worse, and there was a bit of a shower. The problem was not the rain itself, but the wind that made it come sideways. I had packed my umbrella, though it was not too helpful. When rain subsided down, I continued walking, and I got to see a rainbow over the Grand-Place. Great timing!

Rainbow peering through buildings at the end of the street in Brussels

It was only round 18:00 but I decided to go back to the hotel, check in, and get some food and rest. En route, I crossed through the classy shopping gallery Galeries Royales Saint Hubert. At first I had considered grabbing a bite here, but prices made me decide on a supermarket dinner, which was all right. I ate a sandwich and lots of berries.

After checking in, and warning the hotel staff that my companion would arrive late during the night, I got some rest, warmed the room, and when it was dark, I went out to see the illumination on the cathedral Cathédrale des Saints Michel et Gudule | Kathedraal van Sint-Michiel en Sint-Goedele, the square Grand-Place | Grote Markt, the fountain Manneken Pis and the shopping centre Galeries Royales Saint Hubert.

Cathedral and Grand Place at night, illuminated in warm light

I finally returned to the hotel and fumbled a bit with the shower until I found the nice massage mode.