6th July 2025: Brihuega, Yela & Cívica (Spain)

I was supposed to go to Madrid, as I had a free ticket to see the restoration of the façade of the local museum Museo de Madrid up close, but I ended up cancelling due to having been in Madrid the previous day. I really did not care much about the visit, but I had signed up because it was a limited-time thing, and to be honest, I get FOMO when I read “for so long only”. However, I had heard somewhere that there was a chance that the lavender fields would be left fallow the upcoming years, so I guess I felt FOMO in the opposite direction. I had already visited the lavender fields in Brihuega, collectively known as Campos de Lavanda de Brihuega during sunset a few years back, and while in theory the view is prettier, I found that the lavender did not look… purple enough. Maybe it was the angle of the light, maybe it was too late in the summer already, but the flowers looked greyish. Thus, I wanted to see them during normal light once.

The lavender sown around Brihuega is Lavandula angustifolia, a herbaceous plant native to the Mediterranean areas. It grows in small bushes with narrow leaves, and it is popular for its uses – it can be applied in traditional medicine, in the kitchen (as herb or tea) and commercially, to produce lavender essential oil, which has hundreds of cosmetic uses: perfumes, soaps, balms… While it was the region of Provence, in France, which put “lavender watching” out as an activity, for the last 15 years or so, the village of Brihuega has made a name for itself during July as a tourist destination.

I drove to the fields and I reached the makeshift parking lot around 9:00, when there were few cars and just a bus of tourists. I wandered around for around an hour and a half, doing my best not to damage the plants and get a good picture or two – including macros of bees. For the first while, I stayed in a smaller field to listen to the sounds, but then I moved onto the bigger fields for better views.

An inmense field full of purple lavender flowers with some patches of green because the photographer is too short to get the great angle with endless purple

Lines of flowering lavender bushes that reach the horizon

Close up of a lavander plant and a blurred background of endless purple

Close-up of a bee on a lavander flower


 
When I felt I was done, I hopped back on the car and set off towards a nearby place I had always wanted to see. The Sat-Nav sent me through Yela, a tiny hamlet with a Romanesque church Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Llanos and two medieval fountains. Technically, it is a neighbourhood of Brihuega, and it has a horrible road. However, it was still better than driving through Brihuega itself, which I had to do on my way back.

Reconstructed Romanesque church

Fortunately, I did not come across any other car in the opposite direction, but I did breathe in relief when I got to the larger road, from which I accessed Cívica, population 14. There are remains of a Roman villa, and in recent times rumours spread of Medieval knights and Jews in hiding, but this Brihuega district is famous due to a structure built in the mid 20th century.

Though quite a few websites rant on about the “mysterious ruins” in the hamlet, their history is well-documented and widely known in the area. Between 1950 and 1970, a priest from a nearby village convinced a number of neighbours to buy the rocky land lot and work on it. He wanted a sanctuary, a bar, a chapel, all of the above at the same time. It was to be a magnificent complex. What the priest managed was to transform a karst rock wall with natural caves into an interesting façade with carved interiors that would serve for celebrations and debauchery. During the 1980s, it was all the rage amongst celebrities and rich people to go partying there, though it eventually lost its importance and closed down. Its ownership was inherited by a group of siblings who did not find it worth of any effort. A few years ago, it was bought by an entrepreneur who hopes to turn it into a rural hotel – and who shows it around at weekends for 2 € per person. There was a phone number to contact them for a visit, but I had no signal. Fortunately, I ran into the owner as he was starting a visit, so I joined in.

The façade of what can be called Caserío de Cívica has several arched doors (similar to the Visigoth arches in the Brihuega wine caves), balconies and stairs. The interior hosts bars and shelves. Deeper areas, the original caves, can double as wine cellars where drinks could be kept cold when they were still served. Though the Internet keeps saying that “the ruins are abandoned”, this is no longer true – they can be visited by appointment or at the weekend, especially if you are lucky enough to have signal to phone the owner so he shows them to you.

First we were shown the original bar, outside the property itself. Then we went in towards the second bar and the “caves”. Afterwards, we visited the party area, including the booths, which today are a dishevelled garden. Finally, we climbed all the way up to the modern caserío (homestead). Thus, the visit starts on the ground floor, next to the road, and you ascend through the different levels – the garden, the balcony and the upper area, where you can actually walk into one of the natural caves used for food storage in the past. To be honest, after reading so many conspiracy theories on the Internet, hearing the actual mundane story of the “ruins” was almost disappointing. However, it was really cool to check the inside, something that could not be done before – at least not legally.

Cívica, a venue built into a vertical wall, with balaustrades and balconies, from the ground

Cívica, a venue built into a vertical wall, with balaustrades and balconies, from the garden

Cívica, a venue built into a vertical wall, with balaustrades and balconies: walking around the balconies, which were carved into the rock itself

Cívica, a venue built into a vertical wall, with balaustrades and balconies: walking into the halls and tunnels

After the tour, I hopped into the car, and the Sat-Nav directed me back through the village of Brihuega itself. If driving there is difficult already (I ended up having to park outside the town last time), with the lavender activities, and it being a weekend, traffic was chaos. I was lucky I had the right of way so I could leave quickly, and I was soon on the speedway, having watched the lavender and learnt the secrets of Cívica.

5th July 2025: Cheese, archaeology, pancakes (Madrid, Spain)

I am not completely sure how the conversation came up. My sibling said something about cheese tastings. I mentioned something about knowing about a shop in Madrid which organised them. Next thing I knew, I had been tasked with planning an escapade to try. However, closing on dates is not something my family is fast at doing, so by the time my sibling confirmed, the June date we wanted was sold out and I had to book for July.

The final date was Saturday the 5th of July at 13:00. The evening before, there was an explosion and fire in a factory in an area alongside both the speedway and the railway lines, and that forced me to reevaluate transportation – the warehouse worked with lithium batteries, which burn for a very long time. In the end, I decided to try for an early train, with a plan B to drive to a station halfway and meet my sibling there. While you could see the smoke from the wagon, there was no weird smell or anything and the train ran smoothly for once. Maybe we were five minutes late to Madrid? Funny, when I was warned at the station that there were delays. I had planned an extra activity in case we were early.

There was also Pride to take into account, as it was the main Parade, and that causes a cascade of station closures, including Recoletos, the station we had to go to. That would only be an issue to consider when we had to go back though, since they started at 18:00. We could always get the underground and find our way to Atocha.

We started off at the Museum of the National Library Museo de la Biblioteca Nacional. I had seen the museum already, but I had read that there was a temporal exhibit. However, we were unable to find it – it’s been apparently “temporarily closed”. It worked to pass the time out of the heat though. We were done at 12:30 – a bit too early to directly go to the store, but too late to try to see anything else. We decided to walk towards the shop, and we missed it at first, but we soon backtracked and walked into… a literal fridge.

Formaje (an old-fashioned Spanish word for cheese) is a specialised / delicatessen cheese shop. Created in 2020, it aims to “create community around artisan cheese”. They work with farmers, craftspeople, and traditional cheesemakers to distribute environmentally-conscious cheeses from producers who respect the natural processes, the landscape and of course the product. The store is designed to be a warehouse too, so it is… cold. Good thing I was carrying a jacket.

Formaje Castelló: Shop. A cheese shop full of pieces and whole cheeses

We waited in the shop, trying not to obstruct the customers, and gawked at all the types of cheese in display, all of which could be bought, and tasted beforehand! We saw some regulars who had their thermal bags ready for their shopping and debated getting a cheese subscription, and people wandering in out of curiosity. Around 12:55 a lady came to check us in. I was the closest to her, so I was able to take a picture of the whole set up and find a seat closest to the speaker. I have way too many attention issues not to want to be close to someone who is going to do some explaining I care about.

The tasting Cata de Quesos Edición Primavera involved fresh sourdough bread, butter, seven types of cheese, sweet quince paste, red and white wine, and “ice cider”. I am not a fan of alcohol in general, but the ice cider was magnificent. I am not going to gush about how all the cheeses were delicious. Assume I loved them.

Formaje Castelló: Cheese tasting. Long table and a tray full of sourdough bread

To begin with, there was real butter from the farm Airas Moniz in Chantada (Lugo, Spain). Made from the raw milk of Jersey cows grass-fed in the north of Spain, it was fresh, yellow, creamy and salted, and the bread was delicious. The first cheese was Olavidia (from Jaén, Spain), made from goat milk. It had a small layer of smoked wood halfway through. Even if I don’t care much about “the proper order you should eat things in”, I discovered that goat-milk cheese is supposed to be a “soft-tasting” cheese, I have always found it pretty strong. The cheeses were organised from softer to stronger, which apparently is how you should consume them.

The second cheese was a Camembert (protected designation of origin, AOP from its French acronym) from the region of Normandie, France; it was creamy, made from raw cow milk, with a slight moulded rind (with Penicillium camemberti) which protects the inner creaminess.

Then came a Manchego (protected designation of origin, DOP from the Spanish acronym), made with raw sheep milk. It originated in a farm called Finca Valdivieso (Alcázar de San Juan, Ciudad Real). In my opinion this one was the weakest cheese, as I am a fan of older Manchego and this was less than a year old, though still nice.

Number four was a cheese I had not heard about before, Tronchón (from cheesemaker Los Corrales, Almedíjar, Castellón). Tronchón is generally made from raw sheep milk, though sometimes it might be made with goat milk or a mix of both. The one we tried was made from goat milk. The rind is dark and unappealing on sight, but it was nice enough. Despite my ignorance, this cheese is old enough that it was mentioned in Cervantes’ Don Quijote.

Another discovery was the German Blossom Hornkäse. Hornkäse comes from the Bavarian region of Allgäu. The cows that provide the milk are fed with local grass and they don’t have their horns cut (Did you know that a cow’s horns are connected to her throat and they are part of the digestion process?). The cheese is made in wood recipients using only wooden tools. This version comes with a crust of dry flowers which makes it… just amazing.

Sierra Sur was… the icky one. It smelled like literal stable – and not a clean one. It is made with raw goat milk and you have to fight yourself a little bit to take a bite of the rind. It is a seasonal cheese, which I wouldn’t be able to say whether it has gone bad… It did look like it had gone bad… But it was nice enough, if you could ignore the smell. Not something I would buy on my own though.

The last cheese, Savel, came from Chantada – like the butter at the beginning. It is made from raw cow milk, from Jersey cows, injected with Penicillium roqueforti. This was extremely strong, but really good, especially with the bread, and the ice cider called Bizi-Goxo. Though this one brand comes from the north of Spain and is made from Errezile apples, ice cider originally comes from Canada. To produce this particular spirit, the apple is kept through the winter on straw mats, and it does not rot. The resulting drink is stronger and sweeter than a regular cider.

Formaje Castelló: Cheese tasting. Seven small pieces of cheese perfectly aligned on a tray

We spent some time chatting with the lady who had given the explanations, then went on our way. We walked to the archaeological museum Museo Arqueológico Nacional, where they were running two temporal exhibitions. One was a personal-turned-public collection of Egyptian Artifacts called El Egipto de Eduard Toda. Un viaje al coleccionismo del siglo XIX (Eduard Toda’s Egypt: A trip to collecting in the 19th century). Eduard Toda i Güell (1855 – 1941) was the Spanish Vice-Consul in Egypt for a couple of years, during which he amassed a rather impressive collection of artefacts, which he eventually donated to public institutions. The bulk of what he owned is now held in the archaeological museum as part of both the permanent collection and the archives. He had antiques, carbon copies of reliefs, photographies and a hefty number of fakes – apparently, knowing they were so.

Treasures from an Egyptian tomb

The second temporal exhibition we wanted to see was Alas para la guerra. Aratis y la Celtiberia: Wings for war, Aratis (a town, now an archaeological site) and Celtiberia. This one focuses on the Celtiberian culture and how it warred, using soldier helmets as a storyline. These particular helmets have a convoluted history – it turns out that between the early 1980s and 2013, someone used metal detectors to find artefacts from the ancient town and sell them out. This “gang” found and illegally auctioned up to 6,000 artefacts, including twenty helmets which had been forged between the 5th and 2nd century BCE. The archaeological site of Aratis, now called Aranda del Moncayo, would have been probably the most important Celtiberian site after Numancia if these guys had not systematically destroyed it.

The Aratis helmets are the most complete items of their kind that have ever been found. They were not really used for war, but were part of funerary treasures. Truth be told, Germany sounded the alert at some point around 2008 about the legality of the auctions, but the Spanish government did not stop them. Seven of the helmets were returned to Spain in 2018 thanks to the European buyers who learnt that they had been illegally exported, and 11 more have been located. The seven helmets are deposited now in the Museum of Saragossa, but that one is currently closed due to construction work (scattering some of its collections to be shown elsewhere), so they have been lent to the Archaeological Museum.

Celtiberian helmets with decorations on the sides

The exhibition also holds other weapons, parts of armours, and Celtiberian artefacts such as coins and brooches. I had seen some of the messed up spears in the museum in Tiermes, which makes sense, considering it also held Celtiberian items.

Afterwards, I finally (finally!) managed to find the reproduction of the Altamira Caves Neocueva de Altamira open! It just had not worked any other time I had been in the museum for the last ten years, and I had seen it once when I was really young, and something similar in the museum on site a lifetime ago. It was smaller than the one I remember from both times… And it makes me sad that I will never be able to see the real thing, because there’s a waiting list you can’t even get into any more, and only 50 people per year see the actual cave…

Reproduction of the Altamira Cave, with bisons, horses and bulls painted on the ceiling.

My sibling was not ready to go home just yet, so I thought they might like a stop at Kawaii Café before we turned in. We could take the underground and in under a change and 30 minutes – since I had been there just a couple of days before, I remembered the underground station. I was not sure whether there would be a queue to enter or not, but we were lucky. We alighted at Tirso de Molina and went into the café without problem – it was half empty at the time, around 16:30. They really wanted to order something cute – which is not hard. In the end, they chose teddy-bear-shaped pancakes with chocolate spread Ositos rellenos de Nutella, with chocolate syrup, whipped cream and banana slices. This time I went for a matcha frappé.

Two drinks with cute rabbits drawn on top, and pancakes decorated to look like teddy bears

Afterwards, we walked down to Atocha Station down one of the shopping streets. We made a few stops, and reached the station just before the Pride Parade blocked the streets. There, we settled to wait for a train. On the way back, the factory that had had the accident was still smoking, but the dark cloud seemed weaker. However, I never thought I would have to consider “lithium explosion” in my adventure planning, to be honest…

2nd July 2025: Sabina’s Hello & Goodbye (Madrid, Spain)

Lots of things came together on the 2nd of July. First of all, due to weird work schedules that I had no control over, I had a day off in the middle of the week. Second, I had a doctor appointment in the morning – lucky how I could fit it there. Third, Jurassic World: Rebirth, the new film in the Jurassic Park franchise came out. Finally, back in January, I had bought tickets to watch a concert in the goodbye tour by the singer who composed the soundtrack of my teenage-angst years.

So it was just a stroke a luck that work just happened to give me the day off because of unrelated reasons. It would have been luckier to have the following day off too but what can one do? Actually, I propose an unpaid leave called “I had a concert yesterday and it’s not that I’m tired or sore or anything, but I don’t want to go back to reality just yet, I deserve to bask in post concert ‘the world is okay’ bliss.” Think about it, it’s a great idea.

Since I had the doctor’s appointment, I could not plan a whole day out. Once I was done there, I changed clothes and then drove off to the train. Of course, there were delays, what else is new? Halfway, one of the doors got stuck open and we could not start until that got closed manually. But instead of blocking it, they allowed it to keep opening at subsequent stations – so it got stuck again and again.

I reached Atocha just in time to change trains and get to Sol using the same system without a wait, so in a few minutes later I was out in the heat. The original idea had been a light lunch at Yatai Market, but the air conditioning in Kawaii Café was stronger. I had been to another of their shops before, and the food was all right, so I thought why not? I ordered a strawberry frappé and a “sleepyhead bunny” Conejito Dormilón – a Red Velvet crêpe filled with strawberry compote and decorated with cheese cream and blueberries, along with a vanilla-jello bunny mascot. Adorable and delicious. Quite pink, too, due to all the strawberry…

A collage of pink café and a meal - a strawberry frappe with a cute koala face drawn on it. and a crepe which looks like a bedding with a sleeping rabbit on top

When I finished, I headed towards the nearby Yelmo Cines Ideal to watch Jurassic World: Rebirth, a monster movie with a homage to the Jurassic Park book. I guess the film is better if Scarlett Johansson is your type. The film retcons the whole “Jurassic World” premise: now the dinosaurs are dying (and nobody cares about them any more!) and only surviving on an island near the Equator. It turns out that they somehow hold the key to cure heart disease. And then the palaeontologist says that they need to collect samples from the three biggest dinosaurs: Patagotitan (okay, it’s famous now), Mosasaur and Quetzalcoatlus, both of which have already been featured in previous films and are not dinosaurs. Then there are mutated freaks and a Tyrannosaurus with the head of a xenomorph and some extra arms, because the dinosaurs can’t survive, but the “mutated experiments gone wrong” are alive and well? The best from the film was a scene taken from the book, with a Tyrannosaurus and a raft. Unfortunately, this new Tyrannosaurus was not Rexy. Furthermore, the special effects are… not good. Too much bad CGI makes the creatures less believable than those in the 90s instalments, which is… a huge faux pas.

I am glad I saw it on opening day, though – I was able to avoid most spoilers and went in with an open mind. It was not a good film but I didn’t hate it. I will just probably ignore it exists (until the next film comes out, we all know that). Points for the pro-planet message, but it falls a bit flat when you know that Michael Crichton, the original author, was pretty much anti-science…

The film was around 133 minutes long, but oh god, the previews were long. Thus, I left the cinema around 19:30. I had to take the underground, and I knew that some stops would be closed due to Pride. However, last year I had learnt that you’re still allowed to transfer even if you cannot enter or exit the station. I used that knowledge to get myself to Movistar Arena Madrid for Joaquín Sabina’s final tour Hola y Adiós (Hello and Goodbye). I am happy I bought the tickets when I first saw them, because most concerts have sold out, and I got quite a good seat considering the event and the venue.

Joaquín Sabina is a Spanish singer and songwriter born in 1949 in Jaén, in the south of Spain. When he finished his studies, his father offered him a present, and he asked for a guitar. Due to his leftist ideas he had to exile himself in London for a few years during Franco’s dictatorship. When he came back, he lived a life of debauchery, mostly in Madrid, and he probably was not the best role model. But between 1994 and 2000, when I was an angtsy teen, his music was important to me, though I eventually moved away from it. When I heard he was retiring (again) early in the year, I thought I wanted to see him at least once, despite the fact I have not consistently listened to his music much in a couple of decades – there are a few hits in my car playlist. And then there is ¿Quién me ha robado el mes de abril?, Who stole the month of April from me?, which hit me very hard during Covid lockdown and I’ve skipped since then, but never had the heart to delete from the playlists.

Security let me in with my tiny water bottle, thankfully, and I found my seat about 45 minutes before the show was due to start, and 15 minutes after doors – it was weird, I had expected a larger crowd, and I had been a bit stressed leaving the cinema 20 minutes later than what I had calculated. I was on the side stalls, on a ninety-nine-euro spot. There is a whole etiquette about concerts with seats, and while I am quite happy to stand up when it is appropriate, and in this case, I decided I would stand up when people in front of me stood up. Pretty easy.

Sabina Hola y Adiós Madrid: empty stage

Setlist:
 Un último vals (One last waltz; recording and MV)
  1. Yo me bajo en Atocha (I’ll alight in Atocha)
  2. Lágrimas de mármol (Marble tears)
  3. Lo niego todo (I deny everything)
  4. Mentiras piadosas (White lies)
  5. Ahora que… (Now that…)
  6. Calle Melancolía (Melancholy Street)
  7. 19 días y 500 noches (19 days and 500 nights)
  8. ¿Quién me ha robado el mes de abril? (Who stole the month of April from me?)
  9. Más de cien mentiras (Over a hundred lies; band intros)
  10. Camas vacías (Empty Beds; vocals: Mara Barros)
  11. Pacto entre caballeros (Pact amongst gentlemen; vocals: Jaime Asúa)
  12. Donde habita el olvido (Where oblivion dwells)
  13. Peces de ciudad (City fish)
  14. Una canción para la Magdalena (A song for Magdalene)
  15. Por el bulevar de los sueños rotos (Through the Broken Dreams Boulevard)
  16. Y sin embargo te quiero (And yet I love you; folk copla song; vocals: Mara Barros) + Y sin embargo (And yet)
  17. Noches de boda (Wedding nights) + Y nos dieron las diez (And the clock struck ten on us)
 Encore:
  18. La canción más hermosa del mundo (The most beautiful song in the world; vocals: Antonio García de Diego)
  19. Tan joven y tan viejo (So young and so old)
  20. Contigo (With you)
  21. Princesa (Princess)
 La canción de los buenos borrachos (The good drunkards’ song; recording)

Well, what can I say? Sabina has got old since I was a teenager. His voice has cracked – after all, he is a smoker – and he has swollen up. But his concert made me feel 30 years younger, and I enjoyed it immensely. I’ll freely admit that I bought the ticket back in January purely out of FOMO. However, I am happy I did. I did not get any of my personal favourites, and I am okay with that. Most of what he sang was part of those times.

Sabina Hola y Adiós Madrid: musican ensemble

The concert started with Yo me bajo en Atocha (I’ll alight in Atocha), a description and homage to the city of Madrid, which the singer holds particularly dear – despite the fact that he has a bad record with concerts in the city – he once had a panic attack and another time he literally fell of the stage and ended up in hospital. He started sobbing right at the end of the song. Figures.

The venue, of course, cheered and applauded, and stood up to bounce to Lágrimas de mármol (Marble tears), which has too dark lyrics for how… perky the music is, but I guess the message of “survivor, yes, damn it” is what matters. It was during Calle Melancolía (Melancholy Street) when the old guard took over, so Sabina turned the microphone towards the attendees, which did not only sing chorus but brought down the dome with their voices. He was visibly moved.

Good thing that next came 19 días y 500 noches (19 days and 500 nights) a getting-over-a-break-up song during which people can yell, and broke the spell. That made me strong enough for ¿Quién me ha robado el mes de abril? (Who stole the month of April from me?), the first time I’ve actually listened to the song since 2020 – “who stole the month of April from me? I kept it in the drawer where I keep my heart” did not sound so threatening surrounded by hundreds of other people.

Sabina Hola y Adiós Madrid: playing guitar

During Más de cien mentiras (Over a hundred lies), which is a list of all the good things in life and “over a hundred lies that are worth it”, we got the band introductions. Sabina sang himself, and played the guitar for some songs – he stayed sitting down on a tall stool. Safer for him. Antonio García de Diego played guitar, bass, and harmonica; Jaime Asúa Abasolo and Borja Montenegro also played guitar; Josemi Sagaste played sax and non-drums percussions; Pedro Barceló played drums; Laura Gómez Palma played the bass; and Mara Barros did the choruses and had some solo vocals.

Sabina retired to rest for two songs, alleging that it had always been a dream of his to have a song of his sung by a beautiful woman – Camas vacías (Empty Beds), performed by Mara Barros – and by an actual “rocker man” – Pacto entre caballeros (Pact amongst gentlemen) with Jaime Asúa on vocals. Soon after Sabina’s return came a song which holds one of the song lines that has impacted me the most in my whole life: Noches de boda (Wedding nights) hopes that “the end of the world finds you dancing”. I really hope it does.

I guess part of the fun of a concert is that you feel special. Of course that the singer has a speech for every city, and holds each one close to their hearts, or are the best or whatever. But this one did hit differently. I guess my inner child enjoyed it immensely, and even if neither of the songs of the encore did much for me in terms of nostalgia, I was incredibly grateful and happy that I had been able to attend. If it is the last tour indeed, I will have said my hello and goodbye, even if it has been 30 years after the time Joaquín Sabina’s was the only music that played in my room.

Sabina Hola y Adiós Madrid: waving goodbye to the public

Also, another extremely convenient thing: though I went by train, I had a ride home, as my parents were in town and driving back around the same time. Which was great, considering that a storm was brewing, and that there were many underground and train stations still closed due to Pride…

8th June 2025: Atienza & its Drove of Horses (Spain)

Though today Atienza is a remote village with fewer than 500 inhabitants, during the Middle Ages it was an important fortified villa. It was a strategic site in Castile, close to the frontiers to both Aragon and Muslim-controlled areas.

When Sancho III of Castile died in 1158, his eldest son became Alfonso VIII of Castile, being three years old at the time. It was a time of instability, a civil war broke between the two most important Castilian noble families, and the neighbouring kingdoms took over territories and cities taking advantage of the situation. The young king was hidden in several towns to protect him from “the enemies” by several “allies” – who the loyal guys were depends on the story you read. One of the hiding spots was the villa of Atienza.

The king of León besieged Atienza in order to retrieve Alfonso. In order to get him out of the city, on Pentecost Sunday 1162, the Brotherhood of Muleteers requested permission to hold a short pilgrimage (romería) to the small hermit church outside the walls. The attacking army agreed – religion is weird, I guess – and the muleteers snuck the royal child out of the villa. The fastest riders then galloped for seven days to get the king to safety in Ávila. The scheme worked, and Alfonso lived until 1214.

Nowadays, the Brotherhood of the Holy Trinity Cofradía de la Santísima Trinidad carries out a similar pilgrimage, in traditional clothes, on Pentecost Sunday to “honour their ancestors and their feat”. There are several events: a cavalcade – the romería on horseback – a mass at the hermit church, a communal meal, dancing, and at the end of the day, a joust tournament. The whole festival is called “Drove of Horses of Atienza” Caballada de Atienza. As I was driving past the village on Saturday I thought that maybe my sibling would be interested in dropping by, and could do the driving.

On the way, now that I knew where to park, we could stop for a little while next to the reservoir Embalse de Alcorlo, whose dam was opened back in March so it became part of the reason the river Río Henares had so much water. The reservoir was still pretty full.

Alcorlo Reservoir, bustling with water

It was clear from the get-go that we would only stay for a couple of hours. Since we were improvising, staying for the whole thing, without lunch reservations or a definite plan, in the heat, would not have been a great idea. I just wanted to get the gist of how the festival went and how many people there were. Surprisingly, not as many as I thought. We dropped the car off at the entrance of the village and followed the signs towards the centre. We knew we were going in the right direction when we started seeing horses.

Entrance to the Medieval village of Atienza, with the name of the village, the Spanish flag and a castle in the background.

The festival starts at 10:00. The Brotherhood is called into order and they bid to carry the flag and open the pilgrimage behind the musicians. The brothers wear black suits and some are allowed to wear capes – not sure how the horses feel about that. This happens in a narrow street with way too many people and nervous horses. We decided it was safer to stay at the corner rather than trying to approach the scene – we had already witnessed a couple of them getting spooked by oblivious passers-by.

Caballada de Atienza: Horse parade in a Medieval Village. Senior brother carrying the flag

Caballada de Atienza: Horse parade in a Medieval Village. Three riders with to hats and black capes.

Caballada de Atienza: Horse parade in a Medieval Village. Senior brother with the flag, followed by musicians on mules.

Caballada de Atienza: Horse parade in a Medieval Village. Two lines of brothers along a street.

We watched the departure of the pilgrimage, and then jogged to a couple of other places for photos. We decided not to follow the cavalcade to the hermit church, because the return would have been at noon – way too hot. We waved the riders goodbye next to the remains of St. Francis’ convent, the ruins of a Gothic apse Ábside gótico del convento de San Francisco.

After the romería rode off towards the hermit church, we decided to explore the village a little. We went back to the Old Town Casco Antiguo de Atienza to have a look at the local monuments. We crossed the Medieval wall Muralla de Atienza through the arch Arco de la Virgen.

Atienza Medieval Walls

The Main Square is called Plaza del Trigo (Wheat Square), surrounded by traditional architecture, including the old council houses, a covered gallery, and the church of Saint John The Baptist Iglesia de San Juan Bautista. The current church was erected in Renaissance style in 16th century by architect Juan de la Sierra, to serve as substitute as the previous Romanesque parish.

Atienza Main Square: Plaza del Trigo, in severe Castilian architecture

Church of St John the Baptist, with a baroque altarpieceand rebuilt plaster vaults

Next to the church, serving as an exit from the square, stands the arch Arco de Arrebatacapas, the cape-stealing arch. Due to the configuration of the two squares it joins, a wind tunnel forms in the small alley – known to blow away capes or any other unsecured piece of clothing.

Medieval arch in Atienza

From an alleyway we got a good view of the castle – I’ll leave the visit for another time, when all the museums are open, and it is less hot. On the way out, we had a great view of the whole villa before we drove back for Chinese food and cold drinks.

Ruins of the Atienza Castle

7th June 2025: Tiermes Archaeological Site (Spain)

For a while it felt that this day trip was cursed or something. Whenever I decided to schedule it, something happened – a family emergency, a weather alert, work hiccups, car trouble, you name it. I finally got everything ready on Friday and hoped for the best on Saturday morning. The weather was all right, family was okay, the car had passed its check, and work was calm for a minute. Off I went!

The Tiermes Archaeological Site Yacimiento Arqueológico de Tiermes is located in the municipality of Montejo de Tiermes, in the area of Soria. The ancient city of Tiermes was first inhabited in the Bronze Age. Before the Roman conquest, it was a Celtiberian dwelling, and during Scipio’s campaign around 134 BCE to conquer the Iberian Peninsula, it became an ally to Numancia. After the Roman Empire’s victory, the town was assimilated. In the year 98 BCE, Tiermes became a municipuim with two forums, a theatre, an aqueduct and several houses built to maximise the utility of the rocks of the area. In more recent times, a Romanesque hermit church was built nearby.

The site is located around 1200 metres high, in a sandstone landscape with flats and erosion cliffs. Both Celtiberian and Romans built around and into the rock, to the point that there are several “rock houses” which have been excavated into the mountain, with literal furniture carved out of the stone.

While the Romans made sure to keep the legend of Numancia alive – as it made the victory more glorious – Tiermes was eventually forgotten after it was abandoned, probably when the area ran out of water. The ruins were first excavated in 1960 by Teógenes Ortego and Juan Zozaya. It was however the work of José Luis Argente Oliver, between 1975 and 1988, which really brought out the ruins into the spotlight. There were new findings from 2008 onwards.

The drive was just shy of two hours, and since I left on a Saturday around 8:00, the roads were rather empty. I drove past the reservoir Embalse de Alcorlo, but the parking spot to look at the structure was behind a curve and I missed it. I also passed by the Medieval village Molina de Aragón, which had a festival the following day. I had an idea…

It was not extremely hot, and the drive was easy, even if I did not take the speedway. There was a stretch of the road which was really badly paved, and almost as soon as I drove into Soria it became pristine. I reached the parking area a bit before 10:00 – my Sat-Nav was way more on spot predicting the times than Google Maps. Though some of the roads had a speed limit of 90 kph, there was no way you could do more than 40 kph on them.

There is an area to park next to the hermit church Ermita de Santa María de Tiermes, the newest construction of the site, dating from the 12th century, which has a small cemetery associated to it. The little building looks like a 3D puzzle with its bricks and arches. It has a covered outer area, which indicates that at some point it was ready to receive pilgrims. Unfortunately, the church was closed so I could not snoop inside.

Tiermes: Romanesque Hermit Church in brick with decorated arches

Instead, I set off for the walking route, which starts at the Roman forum. When the Romans took over the city, they transformed it according to their customs, and two forums were built throughout the Julio-Claudian and the Flavian dynasties (27 BCE – 68 CE and 69 – 96 CE). Most of the forum was erected above the ground and now it is gone.

Tiermes: Ruins of the forum; a number of square foundations that would have been shops

The same happened to the House with the Aqueduct Casa del Acueducto, though in this case you can walk into the different rooms – and there are reliefs on some rocks that comprise the basements and foundations of the structure. The original house would have had 35 rooms in different levels, with stairs to move around them. The plinth was made out of the red sandstone that comprises the area and the walls were built with wood.

Tiermes: Ruins of a mansion called Aqueduct House

As Tiermes was partially built into the mountain, it has two levels. The upper one, with the forum and the Aqueduct house, and the lower one, where you can see (and enter) houses carved in the rock. I was on the upper part, heading towards the vertical wall to descend onto the lower area. In order to do so, I had to go down the West Gate of the city Puerta del Oeste, which now is just a small gorge between the levels, with a steep slope.

Whilst I was walking towards the Gate, I heard bells, and when I got to the edge of the rocks, I saw that there was a herd of sheep walking underneath, along a shepherd and five huge mastiffs. There was no way I was going to walk near the herd and bother the dogs, so I stayed in the upper part. One of the mastiffs gave out a warning bark, and at first I thought it was directed at me. However, I realised that the dog was barking at a couple of griffon vultures which were circling for any food available, namely if they could snatch a lamb, I guess. And then, one of the vultures decided to circle me instead of the sheep.

Herd of sheep with a giant mastiff guarding it

Griffon vulture gliding for lunch

When the herd was at a safe distance, I went down and crossed the Gate to walk alongside the rock wall, which has houses carved into it. Not only that, there is a whole underground aqueduct Acueducto y Túnel de Tiermes dug into the rock. And you can actually explore its whole length! I went in. It was completely dark except for a couple of ventilation holes, and at the end of it I found myself at the Aqueduct House. I decided to backtrack using the same way in order to continue the route and not miss anything by accident, or because the whole experience was wickedly cool. Take your pick.

Tiermes: Aqueduct and houses carved in the rock


 
From the entrance of the aqueduct, I walked alongside the rock wall and explored the houses built into it – Casa de las Escaleras (The House with Stairs), actual apartment blocks up to seven floors, Casa de las Hornacinas (The House with Shelves) and Sección Rupestre Sur (Southern Area), which was built half into, half onto the rock. Most of these date from or were repurposed during the Roman area, so it is difficult to point the original Celtiberian work.

Tiermes: houses carved in the rock, including staircases

Tiermes: Houses built from the rock outwards

A bit away from the rest of the town stands El Graderío, an area with sitting terraces carved onto the rock that could have been a meeting place or a theatre. Then, I found another of the gates Puerta del Sol, which again gives way to the upper area.

Tiermes: terraces carved into the rock where people could have sat

There was also the reconstruction of the Roman wall, with… a couple of pieces of the original defensive wall, and a lot of new ashlars that looked quite fake, so you could see what was original and what was not. As far as archaeological sites go, though most of what can be seen in the town is Roman, it was cool to see so much standing – especially the aqueduct – considering how little of Numancia exists on site, though the reason is probably the constructions into the rock.

I got back to the car and backtracked a little to the museum Museo Monográfico de Tiermes. The small hall exhibits pieces of pottery and artifacts recovered from the nearby necropolis Necrópolis de Carratiermes – brooches, weapons, and other burial paraphernalia which are indeed Celtiberian. The museum was free since it was a weekend.

Tiermes: Museum. Collage showing swords, spears, ceramics and brooches

On the drive back, my Sat-Nav made a weird noise. It speaks everything except… Well, route changes. It decided to propose a different route, that is what the sound meant. I think it’s a new update or something, because it had not done it before, and it has a couple of items since then. As I could not check it – it was not safe – I missed my turn for the easy secondary road and had to take an alternative route. I ended up in Jadraque.

While it is true that the castle Castillo de Jadraque is amongst the places I need to visit at some point, it was high noon. Too hot, even if you can drive nearby, for a castle which is closed for restoration. I’d rather wait till it is reworked. I did stop at a viewpoint for a couple of pictures.

Not long afterwards I found my way to the highway and it was easy to get home from there, though I do prefer the secondary road to all the lorries in the highway. I got home by lunchtime to wait out the heat and have a post-hike lunch.

Jadraque Castle, a Medieval fortress on top of a hill

30th May 2025: Retiro Park, Alice’s sushi & Jurassic World (Madrid, Spain)

I had been on the waiting list to buy tickets for Jurassic World: The Exhibition in Madrid since it accepted sign-ups, so I was able to be amongst the first to buy tickets – albeit a few days later than originally scheduled due to the blackout. Thus, I got tickets for the first session on opening day, at 17:00 on the 30th of May. Exciting! And – almost as important – it guaranteed a spoiler-free experience…

I decided to fill the morning beforehand, and I arranged to meet some relatives at Retiro Park Parque del Retiro north-east corner. There stands one of the Romantic constructions of the park – the artificial mountain known as Montaña de los Gatos. It is a space that can be used as an exhibition venue erected during the 19th century, when follies where all the rage. A folly is a decorative building placed in a garden, usually extravagant or out of context, without a real use save from looking cute for the owner’s amusement.

The artificial mountain is literally a hollow mound covered in flowers, with a waterfall that was turned off, a sad-looking pond with a duck family, and a glass ceiling to illuminate the inside. It was closed so I could not snoop the “archaeological remains” that were found during the recent restoration.

Montaña de Los Gatos in Retiro Park, artificial mound covered in flower

Next to the mountain there is another folly, La Casita del Pescador (Fisherman’s little house). Besides that stand the remains of an old church Ruinas de San Pelayo y San Isidoro. This tiny hermit church was originally erected in Ávila during the mid 1200s. Built in the Romanesque style, it was first dedicated to Pelagius of Córdoba, and then this was changed to Isidore of Seville. During the Spanish confiscation of the Catholic church properties, it was dismantled and eventually rebuilt in Madrid as Romantic decoration in a project directed by Ricardo Velázquez Bosco. It looks weirdly out of place, but rather pretty.

Ruins of the Romanesque church Ruinas de San Pelayo y San Isidoro, in brick

The yearly book fair Feria del Libro de Madrid had started, but as my relatives were late, we could only have a quick walk before we headed off to Wonderland – The Kaiten Lab – , a running sushi restaurant with hot-dish orders on the side, with decoration inspired by Alice in Wonderland, with a twist. According to the restaurant “you step into Alice’s mind, though Alice was a psychiatric patient”. I am not sure how I feel about the mental hospital thing – I think they were just trying to cash on the entrance that was already there when they bought the venue. However, I can state that it’s a pretty mediocre sushi restaurant. With a menu price about 10 € over a Runni sushi, I was expecting something at least as good, not worse. It sells the decoration, and that is the only thing that makes it special.

Wonderland – The Kaiten Lab –. A funky restaurant themed around Alcie in Wonderland which serves sushi

We went somewhere else for dessert, and I had a smoothie. Afterwards we said goodbye and I headed off towards Espacio Ibercaja Delicias for the opening session of Jurassic World: The Exhibition, which was full of parents with children and a bunch of actual fans, some of them being parents too. I was actually the first in line to enter, but they pulled me to the side to wait for a card called “credit photopass”, which was a free perk from having been on the list. Unfortunately, the fact that they did not have that ready put a bunch of families with kids in front of me. I got my photo taken against a green screen and they added digital dinosaurs later.

As we were waiting, the whole “dinosaurs are for kids” thing popped up again. I knew things were not going to be as awesome as expected when one of the “park guides” said that her favourite dinosaur was Mosasaur. Despite what Jurassic World: Rebirth claims, Mosasaurs are not dinosaurs, but marine reptiles, which lived in the Cretaceous period (94 – 66 million years ago).

Like the previous show, the experience starts on the ferry to the island, which then opens to the main gates with a Brachiosaurus peering from overhead. The whole exhibition runs on the story that you’re a VIP visitor to the Jurassic World complex, getting a special tour. A couple of guys and myself stayed a bit behind to take pictures without kids and families, and the “ranger” scolded us because “we were going to miss the explanations” in front of a pachycephalosaurus. At that point I felt that they were herding us like cattle…

The second room is the laboratory, with Mr DNA included. There are reproductions of eggs, amber, and baby parasaurolophus, one of them a puppet brought out for kids to take pictures with. The staff did not seem to keen on catering to anyone older than eight, again…

The following two rooms were the Jurassic World movie velociraptors (Deinonychus, in real fossils): Charlie, Delta and Echo were in their confinements and there was a bit of a “training show” with Blue and Owen Grady.

Then there was a bit of a “reprieve” room with fossil replicas and a make-believe excavation, where they brought out a puppet of Bumpy, the baby ankylosaur from Camp Cretaceous. Afterwards came the hybrid Indominus rex jungle, which had a hilarious moment when a kiddo shouted “Hello Indominus, I love you” while the thing was supposedly mangling its food. This was probably the best-made animatronic, it looked a lot like the beast they invented for the movie.

The next room held the Gyrospheres from the Jurassic World film, and a baby velociraptor puppet. This one I could take a picture with after all the kids had had their turn.

Jurassic World The Exhibition. Gate with a Brachiosaurus peering above: Collage showing the velociraptors, a carnivorous dinosaurs skull, the Indominus rex and a Gyrosphere

Jurassic World The Exhibition Baby Bumpy the ankylosaurus

Finally, the last room was Rexy the Tyrannosaur – scars from the first movie and all. In universe, she almost broke containment and almost escaped. There were noises and sparks and roaring, honouring the exhibition’s motto: the closest you’ll ever be to real dinosaurs.

Jurassic World The Exhibition Rexy the T-rex. We know she's the one from the first movie because she has scars down her cheek and neck.

All in all, the dinosaur animatronics were amazing, but the staff had instructions to get everyone in-and-out in one hour, so it felt rushed and, as I said before, herded. And honestly, I am not going to listen to “park rangers” who don’t know their dinosaurs from their reptiles… Which would later be one of my beefs with the upcoming Jurassic World: Rebirth movie anyway…

However, there were dinosaurs, and they felt pretty real, especially the Indominus and Rexy. I missed the mosasaur, though (even if there was a super-cute plush toy in the souvenir shop). All in all, the exhibition was really fun. The animatronics were very lifelike and Bumpy looked exactly like she does in the animation. All in all, it was a good day with ruins, sushi, dinosaurs and geeking out. There’s not much more anyone can ask for…

13th May 2025: Three free niche exhibitions (Madrid, Spain)

I planned a little escapade to Madrid. There was nothing really special going on, it was just going to be a sunny day with no rain forecast and I could go to a museum and have lunch. When I say nothing special was going on, I mean there were a couple of exhibits I wanted to see, but it would have been just as easy to visit them the previous or following day. I just timed it for the best weather forecast of the week.

I had a small work-related thing early in the morning so I ended up leaving the house half an hour later than I would have liked. The trains were around 10 minutes late and the underground was packed, but none of that is news. I reached my first stop, the Museum for the Blind Museo Tiflológico de la ONCE, around 11:30. This museum hosts models or miniatures of famous monuments in Spain and around the world, designed to be seen with one’s hands. That way, people with low or no vision can get an idea of how they are. It is part of the ONCE inclusion program for the blind, and I think it is a brilliant idea.

ONCE stands for Spanish National Organisation of the Blind in the local language, Organización Nacional de Ciegos Españoles. Its history and works are a bit convoluted, but keeping it short, the Organisation was established in 1938 with the goal of providing equal opportunities for the blind and people with visual impairments. One of its main income sources is the lottery known as El Cupón de la ONCE.

While the museum itself is free to enter and very relaxed, when you arrive at the building you have to fill out a questionnaire, for statistical purposes, I guess. I did find it a bit off putting that I was outright asked why I wanted to see the exhibition. Because I’m curious, all right?

The museum has three distinct sections – one with the reproductions of the monuments, one with works by low vision, blind, or artists with other disabilities, and a historical area. In turn, the monuments are divided in national (Spanish) and international landmarks. The models are faithful to their smallest detail, and just like the Eiffel Tower is made out of metal, the Taj Mahal is made out of marble! Some of the monuments were reproduced in different scales, such as the Alhambra in Granada or the Aqueduct in Segovia. This should give an idea of both scale and detail. However, I don’t think I would ever be able to imagine something like that without being able to see it.

There were lots of sculptures by artists with disabilities, with a disturbing amount of naked ladies, but whatever. I also saw paintings and a homage to Braille that was sort of abstract but was really cool. The historical section hosted a number of items to learn and write Braille through the years, general studying tools such a 3D map of Spain, and a few historical runs of the lottery ran by ONCE. In general, it was a fascinating visit.

Museum for the Blind - national monuments

Museum for the Blind - international monuments

I did some shopping afterwards, and while the sales lady was really nice, she worked rather leisurely- That, and all the pedestrian lights being red on the fifteen-minute walk, put me seven minutes behind for my lunch reservation – and I swear, they phoned me. I was reaching the door of Comic Planet at 13:07 and they were already calling to check I was coming. People wonder why I’m paranoid about reservation times with them… They decided to change my table to “a more private one” to keep me away from a family with toddlers, and I had no problem.

I got to try the last item that I wanted to try from their menu – the Aquaman Burger, which had caused me some morbid fascination when I first read about it– Beef and king prawns? Garlic and pickles mayonnaise? It could be… either really good or really bad, I thought, and I really wanted to check it out. It was all right, I guess. There was much less of a flavour contrast than I expected, so it was most of a normal burger with a bit of an edge. And the edge was that the buns were blue. I also ordered a Vanilla Coke just because I could, and the waiter was nice enough to offer me tap water when I asked for some too. Cool.

Comic Planet Aquaman Burger

After lunch, I took the underground towards Fundación Telefónica which is running an exhibition called “Echoes of the ocean”, Ecos del Océano. I liked the idea better when I did not know that half of it was done using AI. It was – or tried to be – an exhibit centred around cetacean vocalisations. The first room was a mindfulness thingy in which a lady told you to become one with the ocean and then called you fat – “your body enlarges. You’re huge. You’re a humpback whale”. It made me laugh as it broke all the concentration thing. I also cackled when the voice told me that I went “deeeeep” as a sperm whale and met leopard seals there.

Then there were several huge screens with computer-generated graphs that imitated a sea prairie, dolphins and whales. That was the part that was made using AI, and it could have been a CGI or an actual video just as easily. The important part was that the images on the screen moved along the sounds of actual cetacean vocalisations. A room at the end hosted two actual underwater microphones, and headphones to listen to recordings of different creatures – sperm whales, seals, humpback whales – and ice sliding (this is important because for a long time, the sound of ice on the ocean was unidentified and it yielded to a lot of wild explanations / conspirancy theories).

Echoes of the Ocean screens

On the way out, there was a sculpture with glass reproductions of different microorganisms that love in the ocean: diatoms, anabaena, coccolithophores, dinoflagellates… Yes, this was totally me geeking out and identifying all the tiny little critters. The final room had to do with some photograph and schematics of a particular blue whale that had been tracked by the organisers.

Echoes of the Ocean plankton

I left the building and headed towards Palacio de Cibeles, which this time, was running an exhibit on its own architect Antonio Palacios. The exhibition is aptly named “An architect’s dream: Madrid as a metropolis” Madrid metrópoli. El sueño de Antonio Palacios. It uses photographs, designs, and models to present the works Palacios projected for Madrid – the ones that were built, the ones that were not, and the ones that have disappeared. It was an interesting collection, and the visit was free! Of course, I wandered the building a little before heading to the train station.

Antonio Palacios exhibit - models of buildings

Antonio Palacios exhibit - framed façade designs

Antonio Palacios exhibit - façade design and photograph of the actual Palacio de Comunicaciones building

On the way, there was a classic book fair Feria del Libro Antiguo y de Ocasión, but everything was way too expensive for me. I guess that in general it was a very budget-friendly day – three free exhibitions – if you do not count tiny shopping spree in-between, and it was around 20 €.

11th May 2025: Ruta SPG-24: Bosque de Valdenazar in Spring (Yebes, Spain)

After the rainiest spring in ages, I had a couple of hours in a free morning – or actually, I just needed to do something for a little bit before I could become productive again. And the Internet helped supplying the information of this little route that could be done in under a couple of hours.

The route inches into the oak forest Bosque de Valdenazar, mainly composed of Portuguese oaks (Quercus faginea) and holly oak (Quercus ilex). The track was designed and is maintained by the municipality of Yebes. It delves into the forest and runs parallel to a small stream with bulrushes (Scirpus holoschoenus), rubuses and black poplars (Populus nigra). The area is home to roe deer, small raptors, and foxes, but none of them were around to be found – probably due to screaming kids. I did see some deer tracks.

It felt a bit silly to drive somewhere for a walk, but it was the only way to get there. Google maps was missing three roundabouts, but my Sat-Nav got me there without a hiccup – and considering that I’ve needed to MacGyver a stand for it because the wire keeps coming loose, I think that’s a feat. I parked at the entrance and set onto the hike.

The first stage was a small picnic area, after which came a bit of a steep slope with makeshift stairs. The route is mostly circular and I thought following the arrows was the way to go. At first I was alone, but then I started running into other walkers. The problem was that of course, they were chatting – and the families being a bit loud – and that made any possible fauna sighting impossible.

Valdenazar forest pathway

Valdenazar forest, start of the route

I had a look at what they call the carboneras, a bunch of oak trees that were repeatedly cut and slow-burnt to create carbon. That caused the living trees so they had strange-looking trunks, with several thick branches growing from the stumps. I found the viewpoint to look at the whole valley for a bit, before I walked into the actual forest. There is a wide track that feels a bit like the forest near The Shire in The Lord of The Rings, with the light sweeping through the leaves and the light breeze.

Valdenazar forest trail

Valdenazar forest

Valdenazar forest trail

I reached the stream and deviated to a sub-track known as Senda de la Fuente (Fountain Trail), parallel to the water flow. I expected an actual fountain at some point, but there was just a small waterspout. After that, it was just a bit of an uphill walk to get to the picnic area again.

Valdenazar forest trail

All in all, I was there for about an hour and a half. It was pretty but not the spectacular walk I had read about. I’ve read that it is incredible in autumn, so I might have to check it out again by then, but the truth is that the weather has been crazy in 2025, so I’m not sure we will even have an actual autumn… But all in all, the hike was nice and it cleared my head, which was exactly what I needed at that point.

28th April 2025: The day everything went dark

I never thought that I would be writing any more meta posts after the Covid and vaccination posts, but here we are, another unexpected and surreal event. With one of my parents away for a week, I was staying with the other one to keep them company. Since I was between projects, we had thought about trying a small trip somewhere, and Murcia by train had been an option. We discarded that, and thought do a Madrid day trip instead. Then I received a notification for a bureaucratic thing I urgently had to take care of on Monday the 28th. The letter scared the bettlejuice out of me, but it turned out to be something easy to deal with – and I was not at any fault – so afterwards we went to have a hot chocolate. It was a small celebratory second-breakfast thing.

We were back home when at 12:33, while I was halfway through my daily kanji review, the power went off. It is not uncommon around my parents’ place lately due to construction nearby. However, it was not the house. Nor the neighbourhood. Nor the town.

There had been a countrywide power outage. It was international too, as Portugal was knocked offline too. Part of France lost power too before they cut off the connection to stop the domino effect, and so did Morocco.

Have you ever considered the effects of a national blackout besides something you’d see in an apocalyptic film? All the traffic lights went off, creating circulation chaos. Hundreds of people were trapped in lifts, thousands on surface and underground trains. The suburban and commuting trains were easily evacuated, but some long distance ones just stopped in the middle of nowhere – and safety procedures sanction that passengers may not leave a stranded train unless there is an emergency inside. They had to wait for external rescue – the military, mostly. Had we taken the train to Murcia, we would have been amongst them.

A smaller number of people – window cleaners – got stuck outside buildings, and the police had to give rides to technicians to open stuck lifts all over. However, most lifts don’t have alarms any more, you have to call their rescue number. Within twenty minutes of the outage, phone lines, fibre, 3G, 4G and 5G became progressively knocked off. Before an hour had passed, there was no way to contact 112 in case of emergency. The only thing transmitting was the radio and they had no real information – though they kept patting themselves on the back that they were still on air.

My parent and I were home, we had a battery-powered radio, and a warm room to be in. We also had running water, but no line of communication with my sibling, who was at work, nor my other parent abroad. Big cities became mousetraps for anyone trying to reach the suburbs or adjacent towns – either to arrive home or to collect children from school.

Some shops and supermarkets could operate cash-only, and we heard the Mayor of Madrid say that people who had an emergency should walk to a police station or a hospital. Healthcare centres do not have power generators, but hospitals do. Around 14:00, the radio relied that restoring the power would take around nine hours, but they did not specify whether that would be from the blackout or the reset, which had to be done gradually in order not to overload the system and knock everything off again. Around 15:00, people who needed oxygen machines at home were directed to head to the nearest hospital.

My parent and I had a cold lunch, readied the torches and candles, and put the phones on plane mode so they did not waste battery trying to find the network. I regularly checked whether I could get any signal or send a text message to my sibling.

Hours passed. I built a 3D wooden puzzle I had around. Around 18:00, the Prime Minister was on the radio saying that the nobody had any idea why the outage had happened, that citizens were behaving spectacularly well, and to only trust official information, which was zero from the highest spheres, and incomplete from more local officers. Some regions asked for a special alarm level which means that they relinquish control to the State level. This is done because otherwise the army cannot be mobilised.

Thousands of people who had been due to take long-distance trains back home, and some who had been rescued from stranded trains were accommodated with a blanket and a sandwich in large train stations for the night. Hotels were only accepting cash payments upfront, so the so-called convenient cashless convenience collapsed – and some of them duplicated or tripled their rates. People who had their luggage in places like the one I used in Barcelona, which are opened with pin pads, could not retrieve their things.

We were fine.

The airports managed surprisingly well, with few cancellations, but passengers coming and going could not reach or leave. People walked along roads with signs stating where they were going in hopes a car gave them a lift. Petrol stations either had to close down or ran out of fuel. Restaurants and bars tried to serve anything that could be eaten cold or raw, and hoped that their freezers and fridges held, and power came back before the legal limit that would force them to throw away all their produce.

People were trapped in endless traffic jams or could not get their cars out of the garage, since the gates only worked automatically, or nobody knew how to open them manually. I wondered whether we should get our car out, but we decided we did not have to go anywhere.

High-schoolers walked home. Younger kids stayed behind until a parent could pick them up, with teachers staying with them, and in some cases even walking them home. News started coming on the radio that power had been restored in some areas of the north (thanks, France), the south (thanks, Morocco) and the east (thanks, Aldeadávila hydropower plant, which practises this exact scenario every three years, despite the government saying that it is impossible to lose all power. It was impossible until it happened.).

Late in the evening, the neighbours decided to light up a barbecue in the garden, and in the process they smoked up the whole neighbourhood. I really hoped for no fire because we were 25 minutes away from the closest firefighter station.

Evening, then dusk, then night. We had a sandwich for supper, illuminated by candlelight.

No more official news. Radio presenters gloated about how beautiful it was that families and strangers sat around transistors. Power crept back through the country, and when it came back people cheered and applauded. No idea what had happened. Sabotage and cyberattack seemed discarded – having someone to blame would have made for a juicy press conference, so it was pretty obvious that they had not happened from the lack of information.

Around 19:30, I managed to get a text message out to my sibling, but there was still no phone line. People were still stuck in trains and stations. We were following the radio, but it was completely dark outside. For a while I had been following which spots and municipalities got their power back, but around 23:30, it was just out of compulsion, it felt. We turned off the radio and went to bed.

It was around 1:30 when a beeping woke me up. The freezer in my parents’ kitchen was alerting that its temperature was higher than -18 ºC. It took me a second to realise what that meant. We had power, 13 hours after it had gone out. I found the button to press and spent the next hour or so catching up with / and checking on everyone I could. It was around this time when the last passengers were evacuated from trains.

I eventually turned in, and at 7:15 we got news from my sibling, who called to say they were all right and had made it home after a coworker dropped them off.

To be honest, I’ve never felt so… unsafe in my whole life. I still do. I was fine, and everyone I know was all right – maybe took hours to go back home, but a family died of carbon monoxide poisoning trying to get warm. There was literally no way to contact the emergency service. With the lights out, I kept running in my head how to get to the hospital, the fire station, the healthcare centre… without driving into a mousetrap if there was an emergency.

And what makes me feel unsafe still now is that… I have no answers. The official sources that I am supposed to trust just… try to find a scapegoat. They’re shutting down the nuclear power plants without a reliable alternative to keep the country running… after we have seen how it cannot run. Just because I had the luxury of being all right does not mean everything was fine.

Everything was most definitely not fine. The next day chaos continued. People were stranded in train stations as service got restored. People could not get to work because their underground stops were bolted down.

And the official position is we don’t have an official position. Yes, I’m quoting Independence Day. Spain is the country the aliens would blow up without resistance.

But hey, I got a stress-built wooden pagoda out of it…

Wooden pagoda model

15th April 2025: Kinetic art and Egyptian replicas (Guadalajara, Spain)

Rain and school holidays having thwarted my hiking plans yet again, I decided to make the most of half a non rainy morning when I was going to be around Guadalajara to check out a free exhibition and the museum of a local artist.

Francisco Sobrino (1932 – 2014) was a conceptual artist whose sculpture can be framed into the kinetic art and constructivism styles. The museum Museo Francisco Sobrino hosts some of his smaller works, mostly in colourful vinyls and experiments with materials, textures and light. Pretty colours and shapes, but I guess you need more knowledge of art than I have to appreciate the works and see… something different from pretty colours and shapes. But the museum is free and it is hosted in a historical building, the former slaughterhouse, built in traditional brick and stone. Though I’ve been around a few times, I’d never visited it before…

Francisco Sobrino Museum Guadalajara

The exhibition on Ancient Egypt and King Tutankhamen’s tomb Tutankamón Secretos Revelados: La Exposición (Tutankhamen Secrets Revealed: The Exhibition) was endearing but lacking. It was located in another historical building, the traditional market Mercado de Abastos. It used to be a very successful local market, but the vendors lost most their clientele when it was closed for a few years to turn the place into a culture and bar hub. It was not successful at all, and now it’s a sad-looking place. The top floor hosted the exhibition, with a few posters with information and pictures, one of them being a very buff Anubis from the video-game franchise Assassin’s Creed. There were a few display cases with reproductions of Egyptian antiquated from private collections and books on Egypt. The largest part of the exhibition was a reproduction of several items found in Tutankhamen’s tomb: the wall paintings, a golden chair and the gold-plated sarcophagus. There were also a reproduction of the funerary mask, a brass tray and anything golden the curators seemed to have at hand, including a scarf. And the bust of Nefertiti for some reason.

Tutankhamun Exhibit Guadalajara

Tutankhamun Exhibit Guadalajara

I’m not going to say I was disappointed or that I expected more, it was a cute little exhibition that tried to do its best. Unfortunately, some of the information was inaccurate or outdated – they were showing a video from the 1980s, and archaeology has evolved a little since then.

However, I am still cackling at the low-resolution buff Anubis…

11th April 2025: Extant, extinct and extrastormy (Madrid, Spain)

Since March was extremely rainy, I hoped that April would not be so. No such luck. However, there was a dinosaur exhibit in Madrid that I was keen on seeing, and I wanted to do it before Easter, because it would be packed during the holidays and I could not get there in May due to personal stuff. And since getting to the Casa de Campo area takes so long by train, I looked at combining it with something else around (it’s a four-hour roundtrip from where I am). What other thing was close? Somewhere else I never go because it’s far away by public transport and a nightmare to park around – the local zoo Zoo Aquarium de Madrid. There was after all only a 10% chance of rain…

Spoiler alert: while I was getting drenched (I’m being dramatic, of course. I had an umbrella) in the zoo, and later in the exhibit, the weather app said “partly cloudy” and there was no mention of storms nor rain. But the skies opened. Ask the peafowl…

I took the train and changed to the underground until I got to the Casa de Campo stop. There were not many people around since it was a weekday. There’s a bus that takes you to the zoo, but I found it more efficient to walk, since there is a pedestrian way alongside the road. I reached the zoo a bit after it opened at 11:00, and just as my ticket was getting scanned the first few raindrops fell. At first, it seemed like a small drizzle, but soon it started to rain in earnest. By that time, I had managed to get to the pandas, about 40 metres into the zoo.

I’d been to the Zoo Aquarium de Madrid twice in my life before. The first one I was very small. I have no memory of it, but there is a home video of three-year-old me chasing a peacock and a voice warning “come back, it’s going to bite you!”. The second time I was in third grade, and had my first camera. I remember that I was devastated because the pandas were very far away and I could only take a picture of a distant, tiny, black-and-white blur. That was decades ago, and I had never been back, though I had a recurring dream for years that involved one of the pools there.

The zoo opened in 1972 as an alternative to the “Beast House” or Casa de Fieras that used to be hosted in the Retiro Park, a few sad and crammed-looking cages that must have been horrible for the animals. As every animal park, Zoo Aquarium de Madrid is not free of controversy, especially related to the ethics of keeping great apes and cetaceans in captivity. They used to have dolphins, but those were surrendered and sent away earlier in 2025. Conversely, the zoo participates in over 60 conservation and breeding programs for endangered animals – they have breeding couples of owls, whose chicks are routinely released into the wild, and have succeeded in breeding pandas (they claim to be the most successful institution at breeding panda outside China) and white rhinos. They have non-breeding animals as ambassadors, such as a family of Iberian lynx.

The zoo is vaguely organised per continent – Europe, Australia, Asia, Africa and the Americas, and the home of actual wild animals such as storks and rabbits.

As I went into the zoo, the first thing I spotted was a small lake with flamingoes, pelicans and (squatting) storks. The storks are free to come and go, but they like to be in the zoo because they get free food, I guess. My idea had been to walk a spiral and try to see everything, but I got distracted by “Panda Land”, signalled by a big red gate – after all, they are the main attraction. I thought the pandas might be visible, and they were – much closer than I remembered indeed. I did get to see both the male and the female, who live apart within the same installation. I had time to take a few pictures before it started to rain in earnest. And no, they were not distant, tiny black-and-white blobs this time, and not only because I had borrowed a really good lens for the day. I had to put the camera away when the rain became too heavy.

Zoo Madrid - stork, flamingoes, panda

It rained for a couple of hours, and that impacted me a little. I ended up sharing shelter with a band of peafowl, and had to go from covered exhibit to covered exhibit at first. I found the orang-utan territory very sad, and I did not catch a glimpse of any gorilla. In the aquarium, I got stuck with all the school visits, but there were quite a few sharks and big fish in the ocean tank.

Zoo Madrid: peacocks and peahens sheltering from the rain

Zoo Madrid: Sea lion, small blue jellyfish, sharks

I ambled around the Australian area, where most of the animals were unfazed – especially the cassowary, which by the way is apparently the most dangerous bird in existence, even if I’m way more crept out (and fascinated) by emus. I did not see the koalas, and I walked past a tree which seemed fenced off just because. As rain cleared out, some of the animals started playing around, such as the binturong (Arctictis binturong), a distant relative of civets. At around 13:20, I had reached Africa, and I was in front of the hippos when it stopped raining. Awesome!

Zoo Madrid: Cassowari, binturong, Patagonian mara, and hippo yawning

Since I had borrowed a camera lens which is better – but heavier – than mine, I really wanted to try it out. Carrying it around without being able to use the camera due to the rain, at all, would have been a bummer. After the rain stopped, I was able to take quite a few good pictures though. Those included the Siberian tiger (Panthera tigris tigris), and its relative the domestic cat (Felis catus), whom I’m not sure is a resident or a squatter in the “farm” section of the zoo alongside the sheep, goats, and a very large pig.

Zoo Madrid: Jiraffes, zebra, black bear and Siberian tiger

Since I’d been to Emociones al Vuelo a few days earlier, I did not mind the lack of Raptor Flight exhibit due to rain. I did miss the Exotic Birds one, but I caught the Sea Lion exercise (hello, swimming pool from years of recurring dreams). Around 14:30, it had stopped raining, the animals had eaten, and I caught many of them. Unfortunately, most – especially the carnivores – were napping. I did however saw a very active red panda (Ailurus fulgens) around the tree that I previously thought was fenced off for no reason.

Zoo Madrid: Red panda, common rabbit, grey wolves, brown bear

By the time I left, the workers had also dropped off a few Easter Eggs throughout the zoo as the holidays were about to start. At 17:00 I had to be at Escenario Puerta de Ángel to see Saurios, a dinosaur exhibit, which turned out to be a bit of a disappointment. Most of the animatronics I had already seen as “Dino Expo XXL” – I recognised it because of the broken neck on one of the brachiosaurus. The exhibit had a first part with a few skeleton replicas – the coolest thing, as I had never managed to see a complete cast of a Spinosaurus before. Then there was an open area with some life-sized replicas and photo-ops, but it was completely made for kids. There were actors and activities for them, which I guess were extremely fun if you’re younger than five. Yet another “dinosaurs are for kids” activity.
Saurios Madrid - skeleton replicas

Saurios Madrid - models

And then it started storming again. A black cloud, a clap of thunder, and the skies opened. Thus, we all had to hurry to the last section, which was most of what I’d seen in “Dino Expo XXL”. I was really not impressed by the whole thing – remember folks, “for all the family” means “designed for kids”. I guess I would be more gracious had the weather been nice, but… having seen most of the exhibit before for half the price, I was not impressed. Fortunately or unfortunately, there is a Jurassic World Exhibition coming up soon…

Saurios Madrid - models

6th April 2025: Birds of Prey experience with Emociones Al Vuelo (Aranzueque, Spain)

The 2025 Medieval fair in Tendilla had fewer animals than usual, as the farm was not there on Sunday. However, there was a stand by a birds-of-prey rescue. I was sad I had missed the demonstration on Saturday till I got talking to the lady there. It turned out the rescue had visits. And activities. And activities you could book and pay for. This is important because animal interactions tend to favour kids, which is good for environmental education and all, but makes me jealous…

Emociones Al Vuelo is an education centre and birds-of-prey rescue / charity established in the small village of Aranzueque. It was set up in 2016 to fill a gap and take care of birds which could not be recovered nor released into nature due different circumstances – for example, a kestrel born in the wild, but taken as a chick to be sold in the black market. Or what’s even more shocking to me, hybrids! There are weirdos out there JurassicWorld’ing birds of prey (Your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn’t stop to think if they should. Creepy). These animals often bounce from home to home as hunters acquire and then get rid of them, until the rescue intercedes. The rescue also takes care of animals that used to belong to negligent owners, with broken limbs, or out of breeders’ hands.

The organisation seems to be doing a good job. The birds looked relaxed and were allowed to… basically ignore their “jobs” until they were properly bribed with food, and if they did not want to “work”, they were properly excused. All the birds are tagged and have their names – all of them kind of nerdy: Star Wars, Game of Thrones… They seem to be quite comfortable with the handlers and with the strangers most of the time.

There are three ticket tiers: “basic”, “fly an eagle” and “emotion pass”, which allows you to hold – or be a perch for – five of the tamest birds, and fly the eagles on top of that. I decided that since the tickets were to support the rescue, I would make the sacrifice and get the highest tier… And we all know I’m lying, I totally got the highest tier because I was dying to play with the residents.

Birds of prey, sometimes called “raptors”, are a group of bird species who actively hunt and eat other vertebrates. These strict carnivores are fast flyers, have acute vision, and sharp talons and beaks to help them hunt. Some of them are also scavengers or piscivores. In general they’re characterised as active predators. Though the term “bird of prey” is not really “scientific”, it is very visual and easy to understand. They range from the smallest pygmy falcon, with a wingspan of around 40 cm to the largest Andean condor, whose wingspan can reach 3.3 m. In general, male and female of the same species are different in colours, and at the very least in size, with females usually bigger and stronger, even if usually raptors are lighter than their feathers make them look – on top of feathers having next to no weight, birds have hollow bones to help them fly. Fun fact: nocturnal raptors tend to have dark eyes, diurnal ones light-coloured eyes, and those which are active during dawn and dusk have reddish or golden eyes.

Birds of prey have been used for hunting – falconry – for over 4,000 years, with the earliest references coming from Mesopotamia and Mongolia. Writings from the 7th century CE describe it as widespread in Asia, but as it seems that nothing ever existed before the Europeans found out about it, one has to wait until Frederick II, Holy Roman Emperor (1194 – 1250) wrote his treatise On the Art of Hunting with Birds for it to become commonplace. During the Middle Ages, falconry became a symbol of power and status, especially for recreational hunting, until the raptors were substituted by firearms. Falconry became popular again in the 20th century, and in 2010, it was added to the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

While the birds in Emociones Al Vuelo are somewhat trained to at least tolerate human presence, what the rescue does cannot be considered falconry. The birds fly from protective glove to protective glove in search of treats, but they are not really trained for tricks. One of the things that we visitors were told is that the birds “fly off” the gloves, not made to take off, as you see in films.

I arrived in Aranzueque around 9:35 for the 10:00 show, with gates at 9:45. It was a crispy morning, but it had been raining all March, and finally there was sun and a decent forecast. I was wearing layer upon layer anyway, and was happy to shed them off as the day warmed up. To be honest, when I booked the place, I did ask if there would be a rescheduling should the weather be miserable, but aside from some mud on my boots, I had nothing to worry about.

Once gates opened, visitors parked inside – people from the rescue have maximising parking space down to an art – and checked in. I had paid when I booked, and I received a lanyard pass and a paper bracelet.

The base activity lasts about three hours. The guests sit on benches arranged in a circle under a tree – I found a spot and made sure my back was to the sun for pictures. There was a brief introduction of very logical rules for the animals’ wellbeing. The activity – I feel reluctant to call it a show – brought out 14 birds of nine species and I got to interact with five different species, and a total of six – seven animals.

The first bird to come out was Sansa, the (Western) barn owl (Tyto alba). Barn owls are mostly nocturnal birds, white to reflect the moonlight, and with brown specks on their back for camouflage on the ground. They are not the biggest raptors, though they can reach a wingspan of almost one metre. They’re mostly recognisable because they have a heart-shape face, and black eyes. At first, Sansa did not seem to want to make friends, and she flew high up the tree, but after some bribing she agreed to come say hi. She was the first bird we interacted with, she flew from glove to glove to snack.

Sansa, the (Western) barn owl

Sansa, the (Western) barn owl

The second raptor was a tiny one – a little owl (Athene noctua) called Xena. In Ancient Greece, little owls were considered the companions to Athena, Goddess of War and Wisdom. They’re small birds with yellow eyes and brown-and-white plumage which mimics the bark of trees. Xena was happy to be walked around and set on shoulders and heads for her interaction turns. She did not approve much of my glasses for some reason.

Xena the little owl

Afterwards, Nymeria was brought out. Nymeria is a rescue hybrid, born from combining a lanner falcon (Falco biarmicus) and a peregrine falcon (Falco peregrinus). She has never really flown and it was hard for the rescue to take care of her, since she had several congenital and behavioural issues when she was taken in. She’s still getting used to seeing people, but she is apparently getting better.

Nymeria the raptor hybrid

Another rescue was Ripley, a common kestrel (Falco tinnunculus). Kestrels can reach a wingspan of 80 cm, and though males and females look different, they tend to be chestnut brown with darker spots on the back, and lighter spots on the underside. They also have a black or darker mark around the cheek (malar stripe). Though they are not considered endangered, their nesting areas are protected in places like Plasencia. Ripley was chicknapped and ended up in a legal limbo – when she was found, she could not be kept, could not be released, until she found her home in the rescue. She was very happy to flop from glove to glove and snack on the fresh meat she was given as an incentive.

Ripley the common kestrel

The Eurasian eagle-owl (Bubo bubo) is a bird of prey that has always fascinated me, since I was really small and I heard that a) there was one in our attic and b) they could hunt and eat little children. Somehow, looking back, I doubt either of those statements were true. And despite it all, I was literally never allowed in that attic for the nine years we lived in the house… Eurasian eagle-owls are amongst the largest owls, with almost two metres of wingspan. They are easily recognised by their orange eyes and their facial feathers pointing upwards looking like “ears” or “eyebrows”. They always look like they disapprove of you. They camouflage really well against tree bark, being different shades of brown in spotted patches. The rescue has two of them – Dracarys, the male I got to hold, and Storm, a less tame female.

Dracarys the Eurasian eagle-owl

We then met Vader the common raven (Corvus corax). Ravens are not birds of prey, but are closely associated to them. In nature, when an animal dies, ravens are among the first scavengers to arrive. Their black-blue iridescent plumage is easily spotted by flying raptors, who come join the feast. Don’t get fooled, ravens are bigger than they look – they might reach a wingspan of 150 cm – but most importantly they’re smart – they analyse, problem solve, imitate, recognise individuals, and hold grudges. Vader has mastered the opening of lids in order to access snacks…

Emociones Al Vuelo Raven

Next came the oldie-but-goldie Blue, a female Eurasian goshawk (Astur gentilis), who was taken in from a breeder after 12 years of laying eggs for them. Goshawks are medium-large raptors (up to 130 cm) with a distinctive striped pattern across the underside, and a greyish back. They have piercing reddish eyes and one hell of an attitude. They are extremely territorial, and usually live in breeding pairs, though females are known for being able to kill the male if he does not bring food to the courtship.

Blue the female Eurasian goshawk

Later came Valyria the Red-tailed hawk (Buteo jamaicensis). She seemed that she would be happier chomping on fingers than perching on gloves. Red-tailed hawks are endemic to North America, and they are diurnal hunters of up to 141 cm wingspan, with females being much larger than males. They do not fly around for prey, but hunt from a perch, and their brown and dark plumage helps them camouflage against the bark of trees, their tail is predictably reddish when seen in flight.

Valyria the Red-tailed hawk (Buteo jamaicensis)

The final species we got to see was the Harris’s hawk (Parabuteo unicinctus), which I’d also seen in the Medieval fair in Alcalá de Henares. They can reach 120 cm of wingspan and are also quite intelligent. They originate from the woodlands and semi-deserts in the Americas, thus they tend to be brown and black, with a little spotted white. They live and hunt in stable groups with a dominant female and her mate. They have developed pack-hunting strategies, with half of the group scouting and half of the group doing the killing. They currently are the most popular raptor in Western falconry, often used to control smaller birds’ population. They are apparently easy to train and they are quite social. There were three of these animals we got to interact with – Tyrion, Winter and Arya.

We could go out to the “flying field” and “play” with them. Tyrion did not seem to want to play a lot, and had to be benched. He actually did only two or three flights – the first one was towards me, and I got to hold him for a while longer since he did not want to fly away. Something that surprised me was how light all of the birds were – I had been worried I would be unable to hold them, but as I mentioned before, feathers and hollow bones make them absolutely… unheavy.

We had a few flights, which yielded to cool pictures, and then some “games” which involve trying to get the hawk to fly between two rows of people, or underneath someone else’s legs. There were some more explanations about behaviour in the wild and the dynamics of the birds and their human caretakers. We actually got to hear a lot about how the different birds interact with each other and their humans throughout the three hours the activity lasted.

Harris's Hawks mid-flight, wings open

Harris's Hawks coming to the falconry glove

At the end, everyone – even those who had not got the interaction pass – could take a picture with one of the Harris’s hawks. I ended up signing up to another activity – a wildlife photography course – but that one was eventually cancelled due to lack of sign-ups. I drove back home, happy the weather had been almost perfect, and hoping I had not get sunburnt. I also managed to make it through the day without cracking a Jurassic Park joke, but obviously not a whole post – so I shall just remind you here that birds are direct descendants from dinosaurs… Or why do you think they chose “Blue” along all the Game of Thrones references?

31st March 2025: More Modernisme and the way back {FFVII Barcelona 2025}

For our final day in Barcelona, I had planned some more architectural visits. I had adjusted my planning considering the underground issues the previous day, but it turned out, it had been a Sunday-only thing. We had breakfast and on check-out, the manager asked how the stay had been. To his merit, when we told him about the issue with the air-conditioning, he apologised and offered us free breakfast in compensation. After we declined – timed entry visit – he advised us to write a complaint letter for a discount next time. I didn’t think it was necessary.

Since the station we had to change at was open, there was no issue with the underground, so we were half an hour early. I had booked a locker for the luggage in the centre of town, as the hotel is very convenient for attending a concert at CCIB, but quite far from… everything else, really. The locker system was convenient: you book online and get a code which opens both the place and your assigned locker. I found it more trustworthy than leaving the bags in a random shop which “looks after luggage”. However, about a month later, there was a complete outage in Spain, which made me second-guess the convenience of these things, as I heard about a lady who could not go home because her luggage was inside one of those lockers. We’ll see whether I dare use them again.

We were to continue on my Modernisme route, visiting one of the works of Antoni Gaudí (1852 – 1926), considered the peak representative of the style – to the point that some of his works have been declared Unesco Heritage by themselves as Works of Antoni Gaudí. Gaudí originally found inspiration in orientalism and Neo-Gothic, but as he became more and more established, he turned to nature forms – seeds, branches, bones, catenary shapes… The UNESCO work we wanted to see was Casa Milà, a building commissioned to Gaudí by lawyer Pere Milà in 1906. The building itself was erected between 1906 and 1910, and it was nicknamed “The Quarry” La Pedrera. It is an eight-floor apartment building with a self-supporting façade, electricity, running and hot water. The building was designed around a central patio, and it has a very particular roof-terrace. Some people claim that Casa Milà does not even fit into the Modernisme category, but it should be classified as “organic naturalism”, or even “expressionism” all by itself.

La Pedrera, exterior

I found the building… underwhelming. We had a combined ticket for Sant Pau and Casa Milà at 39 €, but the normal ticket price for the building is 40 €, and this is only for one of the floors with a “recreated apartment”, the attic, and the terrace. At least you get to see the patio as you have to walk past it so you reach the tiny lift in which they cram you to take you to the 7th floor. The experience felt… like… not enough. I was for sure expecting something more.

La Pedrera, Interior

Do not get me wrong, the house is extremely cool, but you get to see really little in comparison to how big the place is. So even if it is pretty, it feels crowded and small, with way too many gift shops crammed in. The terrace is fun, with chimneys that look like ancient warriors – some people say they represent chess pieces, others that they hide religious undertones – Gaudí was very spiritual. Reportedly, they also inspired the stormtroopers’ helmets in Star Wars.

La Pedrera, terrace

Afterwards, we walked to the music hall Palau de la Música Catalana part of the Unesco Heritage Site Palau de la Música Catalana and Hospital de Sant Pau, Barcelona. The so-called Palace of Music was designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner a couple of years after projecting the hospital.

Palau de la Música Catalana

Everything that Casa Milá came short, the Palace passed with full marks. The building has an original entrance designed by Domènech, in dark brick with extensive decoration. The interior is laced with tiles and glass, and tinted-glass windows. The concert hall is amazing. At first, we could not access it, because there was an educative concert for children going on, but we were later allowed to sit at the paradise. There is a huge skylight / lamp in coloured glass, pegasus statues. The concert was incredible too, with four to six musicians playing classical music and… running around the stage too. Lady trotting up the stairs while playing the cello, you have my admiration. I loved everything about the palace, to be honest, except the creaky chairs.

Palau Música Catalana

Once we were done in the Palau, we walked to the market Mercat de Sant Josep (St. Joseph’s market), known as La Boquería (The Butcher’s). It used to be a regular marketplace, but now it has turned a touristic attraction. The main entrance is also part of the Modernisme route, designed by architect Antoni de Falguera, who also created the inner metal cover. Though I had half a mind about eating there, the prices were ridiculous, so we ended up at an Asian place a couple of streets down. On the way, I had been excited about the “Barcelona Aqueduct”, but it turns out it’s a modern construction with old ashlars, nothing historical in it at all.

Market La Boquería

After lunch, we had about an hour to kill, and we decided to try our luck in the hobby-shops area. The Norma Comics shop was open, and we spent a while looking at the books there. Then, we headed back to pick up our luggage and commute to the station.

We had to change trains, and there was an announcement that any passengers with a connection shorter than 30 minutes would be escorted to their train. Of course, that’s only PA, and you’re on your own – I asked a worker, who tried to divert us to the suburban trains, not our connection. From that conversation, I think that we were supposed to go out of the system and get our tickets scanned again, but we found our train before that. There was no one else to consult with, so I decided that we would get on it. My sibling was mortified, but we were not doing anything wrong. If anyone checked on us, we had a valid ticket. They had not lived up to their part of the agreement anyway – and I would have told them exactly that, had anyone even thought of scolding us.

But we made it, as I predicted nobody gave us any grief, and the drive from the train station was uneventful. All in all, it was an intense weekend – though I feel I could have squeezed in a monument or two more had we skipped the sit-down meals, but my sibling can’t handle that. All in all, I think everything worked out rather well.

30th March 2025: Sant Pau, Verne & a chocobo {FFVII Barcelona 2025}

The Barcelona hotel charged 20 € per day and person or breakfast, and I was not willing to pay for that, and so I told my sibling. They had no option but to accept since they had decided to delegate all planning and credit-card’ing on me. Instead of booking with breakfast, I brought cold latte bottles and snacks – good for taking headache medicine, which I did. After a quick breakfast, we set off. As we left, I asked at reception if they could do something about the air conditioning.

We headed towards the underground. It should have been an easy twenty-five-minute commute, but one of the stations was half-closed. We had to go outside and walk towards the other entrance to change lines, which was strange and consumed a ridiculous amount of time. We had to be at the ticket booth of our booked visit ten minutes before the allotted time, and we barely made it – though they did not seem to care. When I was looking at tickets, I found a combined ticket that saved us 10 € for two iconic buildings in town that I had not visited before. That however implied exchanging vouchers for tickets, thus the extra time.

We reached the former hospital of Saint Paul Sant Pau Recinte Modernista ten minutes after I had anticipated, right at the time we had to be there. Sant Pau is a huge hospital complex erected between 1901 and 1930 by architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner (1849 – 1923). Domènech favoured Modernisme, and is considered one of the most influential architects in shaping it. He designed buildings which balanced functionality and decoration, with lots of mosaics and polychrome. Though the precinct had been a hospital since the Middle Ages, it was completely redeveloped for the early 20th century project. Today, it is half of the Unesco Heritage Site Palau de la Música Catalana and Hospital de Sant Pau, Barcelona.

Hospital San Pau from the street

The hospital is considered one of the most important, and largest, complexes in the local Modernisme style. The complex was designed with 26 buildings, 12 of them pavilions for patients, separated by sexes and kind of disease. The pavilions were connected by underground tunnels, leaving space for gardens and open spaces between structures. It was originally conceived to be self-sufficient, closed off to protect the rest of the city.

Hospital San Pau, outside

The buildings are erected in brick, and decorated with ceramics both inside and outside, some of them forming complex mosaics on the roofs and ceilings. After a new hospital was built next to the original one in 2009, the complex was recovered as a museum in 2014. We could visit the pavilions, the tunnels, and the administrative building. The whole enclosure is magnificent, and incredibly large. It took over two hours to see everything we were allowed to visit and I loved every second of it. Well, except the pavilion with political propaganda.

Hospital San Pau, interior

Afterwards, we headed out towards a fun restaurant I had found online – Verne Barcelona, decorated simulating Captain Nemo’s Nautilus from the novel Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea by French writer Jules Verne. We shared a cone of tempura vegetables and I ordered a “Submarine” – a sandwich made from toasted brioche bread – called Turtle, with battered squid, sauce and salsa (I just don’t understand how they are supposed to resemble a submarine…).

Verne Barcelona

We headed back towards the hotel, stopping at a Starbucks for a coffee – a matcha in my case – because I helped my sibling dress up for the concert. We had been carrying the cosplay after all, of course they were going to wear it!

We were in Barcelona to attend the Final Fantasy VII Rebirth Orchestra World Tour, to be held in the CCIB – Centre de Convencions Internacional de Barcelona. Final Fantasy is an expanded video game anthology which set off in 1987. Since then, it has spawned 16 main games and countless spin-offs, media, plushies, and remakes. One of the most famous games is the seventh instalment, Final Fantasy VII, released in 1997. The game is set in a cyberpunk dystopia where energy is obtained by draining the Planet’s life-force. Gameplay follows the adventures of a party which opposes the system, embodied by the electric company Shinra, while at the same time trying to stop the main antagonist – mad soldier Sephiroth – from destroying the Planet itself.

Since 2015, Final Fantasy VII has been under redevelopment into a trilogy using modern graphics. The first game was Final Fantasy VII Remake, released in 2020, whose music had its very own World Tour in 2021. The second instalment, Final Fantasy VII Rebirth came out in 2024, and its music event – Final Fantasy VII Rebirth Orchestra World Tour – began almost immediately, ending precisely with our concert.

We were at the queue already when doors opened, but not early enough, so we needed to line again for the merchandise booth, almost an hour. It was in that queue where something amazing happened. When we attended the previous concert Final Fantasy Distant Worlds 35th Anniversary – Coral –, we were stuck at the merchandise queue for about an hour too and by the time we reached the front, they had ran out of most of the items. That included what I wanted the most – the chocobo plushies. Chocobo are a recurring species in the Final Fantasy franchise, large birds that can be ridden in-game, and in real life be sewn into cutesy toys.

It turned out that in 2023 the last chocobo plush had been bought by the guy who was sitting behind me. I might have made some jokes about stealing it and running away, and he promised to get me one for the next concert. I of course filed that under “one encounter silliness” and forgot all about it.

Well, he did not.

In that queue, two years later, he found me, and he gave me a chocobo plush. He actually found my sibling, who was easier to identify due to the cosplay. I was absolutely flabbergasted. Gobsmacked. Never in a million years would I have expected something like that to happen. Just… figure that everything that went on afterwards was coloured by a feeling of puzzlement and amazement at this stranger’s kindness over a silly plush I wasn’t able to buy two years before.

Chocobo!

We got to the front of the line over an hour later, almost at the time of start. I only wanted a programme, and we were seated around 20:50. I am good at choosing seats, by the way. We were dead centre at a great distance from the stage.

Setlist:
  First part:
  1. The Unknown Journey Continues
  2. FFVII Rebirth Opening
  3. Main Theme of FFVII – Battle Edit
  4. A New Journey Begins: Grasslands / Junon / Mt. Corel
  5. Crossing the Planet: Corel Desert / Gongaga / Nibel
  6. Queen’s Blood
  7. Stamp – Rebirth Medley
  8. Rufus’s Welcoming Ceremony – A New Leader
  9. Costa del Sol – Fun in the Sun
  10. Custom Valkyrie
  11. End of the World Medley
  12. Cosmo Canyon – Sanctum of Planetology
  13. Bare Your Soul
  14. Welcome to the Gold Saucer
  Second part:
  15. Loveless Symphonic Suite – Gift of the Goddess
  16. No Promises to Keep – Loveless Ver.
  17. Galian Beast
  18. J-E-N-O-V-A Lifeclinger
  19. Sephiroth Reborn Symphony
  Encore:
  20. One-Winged Angel – Rebirth Medley
  21. Aerith’s Theme – Return to the Planet Medley

Final Fantasy VII Rebirth orchestra playing

The orchestra was directed by Eric Roth. It was all right, I enjoyed it. However, I don’t think it was as powerful as the first one I saw, but that one was the first post-Covid event so it was emotional in other ways. Then again, I am not a gamer. I just watch gameplays on the Internet… I was a bit disappointed by the arrangement of One-Winged Angel, it felt… too elegant. What I love about the song is the pure chaos it represents, after all.

In attendance was composer Masashi Hamauzu [浜渦 正志 | Hamauzu Masashi]. He started working for Square Enix in 1996 under Nobuo Umematsu, the main composer of Final Fantasy VII music. Hamauzu’s first direct work related to the saga was the Chocobo’s Mysterious Dungeon soundtrack in 1997. He was in charge music for the Final Fantasy VII spin-off Dirge of Cerberus and alongside Mitsuto Suzuki, he has worked in both Final Fantasy VII Remake and Final Fantasy VII Rebirth.

After the concert, we joined the VIP queue for pictures and autographs. Though I had brought the CD from the time before – when I did not get the pamphlet – I was equipped this time. And I even managed the Spanish – English – Japanese cacophony without messing up either of them. That’s a first for me, I think. I got my programme autographed on the setlist page, and then my sibling and myself headed back to the hotel. For 179 €, I keep thinking the VIPs should at least get their own merch queue, or an item to get signed. I guess there are lots of people to get paid…

Eric Roth and Masashi Hamauzu signing autographs

Something that surprises me a lot about this area of Barcelona is that not even the McDonald’s at the shopping centre is open after 23:00, so I always make sure we buy something to snack after the concerts. The room was at least not freezing, though not particularly welcoming either. I had a hot shower, and that finally got rid of my headache, just in time for bed…

29th March 2025: Tibidabo & Friends {FFVII Barcelona 2025}

It sometimes feels like the alarm clock going off at 6:00 is actually worse than it going off at 3.00… Fortunately, after a hefty dose of coffee, I was able to get on my way, and we got to the station on time to do some reorganising of luggage. The situation with the trains was chaotic due to some projected works on the tracks. They announced that the train would be 12 minutes late, but it actually arrived and left a minute early. The train ride was uneventful, despite a large crowd of loud teenagers from a rugby team who had no idea where the were going, and really dirty toilets in the cars. The train reached Barcelona ten minutes before schedule. However, it did not go into the station until 15 minutes later for some reason – I really don’t understand what was going on with the whole railway system, or how construction in Madrid affected the time to enter Barcelona, but at least we were there.

The first step was dropping off the suitcase. Fortunately, Barcelona Sants has a luggage storage. I decided that for 10 € I could ditch my backpack and not haul it through the underground. Barcelona Sants station was under construction in 2021 and it’s still under renovation, so it took a bit to get to the correct place with the suitcase. Once we could drop the luggage off, we headed off to the underground.

There, we had to queue up to get our transportation cards from a machine – which apparently could not be used in any language except Catalonian. I had a code to input, and with that code the machine spat the tickets. They were convenient to use, and they worked on the underground and the buses without problem. The online discount made them better value for money: a single ticket is 2.65 €, and the 72-hour card Hola Barcelona is 26.30 €, which is reduced to 23.67 € if you order online (a 10% discount which is almost the price of one trip).

I had waited to book activities till the very same week because I wanted a relatively good prediction on the weather. It was not as nice as I had hoped due to the wind that morning, but oh well. Unfortunately though, the eclipse caught us in the underground. I had hoped we would be outside already, but we were over half an hour behind schedule due to the train and the construction in Sants.

I had bought tickets for the amusement park Parc d’Atraccions Tibidabo. A long time ago, from Park Güell, I was trying the zoom of my then-new camera and I was intrigued by its silhouette. I was curious and honestly, I thought it was an interesting place to see. Tibidabo is considered the oldest – or at least longest-running – amusement park in Spain. The first rides opened in 1905 under private initiative, though the park is now owned by the Barcelona city council.

I found a ticket which allowed to see the panoramic area and ride the “classical attractions”. It included the shuttle bus and the funicular Cuca de Llum, opened in 2021, which is not the original from the turn of the 20th century, but a recently renovated one. There’s no way I am getting on a funicular which older than 100 years old. To get there, we took the underground, and walked to the so-called Tibidabo Store, where we exchanged our tickets for bracelets so we could ride the bus to the funicular. The place is a bit out of town indeed.

We reached Parc d’Atraccions Tibidabo around 12:45, a good couple of hours after leaving Sants. Upon entering, it was colder than I had imagined, because it was windy, especially at the top of the mountain. There was no ticket control except for the attractions, so we were able to come and go as we pleased, and i found that was a regular mini-bus that went there. I felt a bit cheated, but I guess the funicular itself was an experience! Good thing that I am not too keen on rides and I decided to only get the basic ticket. It did not feel cheap either (21.50 €). The ticket Pase atracciones emblemáticas allowed us to wander around and ride the ‘emblematic’ rides – i.e. the classic one – and see the museum.

Barcelona from above

We first had a look at the city of Barcelona underneath. The view was not particularly different from the one in Parc Güell, except I’m more familiar with the layout by now. We then turned to snoop around the Temple of the Sacred Heart of Jesus Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor, a Christian church designed by Enric Sagnier i Vilavecchia (1858-1931) in a mix of Neo-styles, halfway between a Disney Castle and a classic cathedral. Construction was carried in two phases: 1903 – 1911, and 1915 – 1951. The upper towers were built later on, and work continued until 1961. The outer lower area is Neo-Romanesque, and the upper one Neo-Gothic; the inside is Neo-Byzantine, with mosaic walls. It has stairs a the sides to move from one level to another, and a lift inside. All in all, the whole building is… weird.

Sacred Heart Basilica

We ambled around for a while, and finally decided to have an early lunch, so we could avoid the family rush. My sibling wanted a proper sit-down, and we found the only option offering actual tables. The service was terrible – we never got glasses nor cutlery. We had to ask for napkins twice I think. Thrice for the bill after ordering two bottles of water and two burgers Hamburguesa de mejilla ibérica con pepinillo (Pulled pork and pickles burger). The service was so bad that the waiter decided to give us a complementary 15% discount on their own volition.

After lunch, we queued to ride the carousel and the Ferris wheel, and we saw the Automatons Museum, which was really interesting. The oldest piece dates back from 1880, and the newest from 2005. There used to be automatons sprinkled through the park for almost a century, but they were housed in their current home in 1982 to protect them from the weather.

Tibidabo Panorama

Automaton Museum

Around 15:00, we came down from Tibidabo. We had to share one ticket to get into the funicular, and the doors closed on me. I had to go to customer service to wait for someone to give me a replacement one. We undid all the way back to Sants to pick up our luggage, then we went back to the underground to meet with my friends E**** and P***o near their house to celebrate an important event in their family. We stayed with them for a few hours, then dropped by the supermarket to buy dinner for the next day, and took a bus towards our hotel.

We checked in, dropped our stuff in the room, cranked up the heating, and went to have dinner. We ended up at a Japanese franchise because the website said they had okonomiyaki, which they didn’t. At least they had dorayaki to compensate.

When we came back the room was at 19 ºC, and the air conditioning was blowing out cold air. I turned the thing off and went down to reception, where they told me they would call with a solution – either maintenance or a change of room. An hour later, without having heard from them, I went down again and a different receptionist told me the only thing that could be done was giving us extra blankets. I asked for three blankets and only got two. But I was too tired to fight – there was an extra towel I could use for added warmth. I defrosted in the shower and went to bed.

29th – 31st March 2025: Final Fantasy VII Rebirth Orchestra World Tour in Barcelona (Spain) {FFVII Barcelona 2025}

My sibling is an avid Final Fantasy fan, or at least of the concerts, and they usually ask me to prepare a trip when there is one in Spain. They tend to be in Barcelona, which has a love-to-hate relationships with tourism. Short-term letting apartments to tourists is more profitable than renting to residents, which is (allegedly) one of the causes of the current housing crisis. Finally, it has one of the highest criminality rates in Spain, and the epicentre of the secessionist movement. Thus, I’ve not planned much the last couple of times we were there, just enough to fill the days. It does not help that my sibling is a cosplayer and we have to haul a suitcase with the outfit.

This time, however, the Final Fantasy Rebirth Orchestra World Tour concert was on a Sunday. I have no faith in the public transport system any more, and Monday had to be requested off anyway, so we ended up looking at Saturday-morning to Monday-evening trip. Thus, I decided to fit in a bunch of Modernisme and other stuff that had been on my list for a while. Also, friends! Because friends are extremely important, especially when big changes are on the way!

I bought tickets for the concert in June 2024, when they went on sale. I booked the hotel in November, but I refused to pay for breakfast, because it was 20 € per person and day, and I was not going to pay 40 bucks for weak coffee and stuff I don’t even eat… And then I did not do much planning until February. However, I knew that at some point I needed to get things organised, else we would spend the weekend queueing to enter places. I’ve seen it happen before…

The train tickets only came out 90 days in advance, and I got them in early February. They were expensive – I had hoped to catch one of the new low-cost trains, but paying for the cosplay suitcase would push it to normal ticket prices. I found an outbound direct train, bit the return one that I wanted was not running, so we had to take a connection – which meant going to Madrid, then backwards on our way back. Oh, well. And on top of that, construction on the tracks triggered delay warnings – which did not come true in the end, good thing I insisted on being at the stations for the earlier time, whether it was the old or new one.

I put together a tentative itinerary waiting for the weather forecast, and the week of the trip itself, I booked tickets, including the transportation card – which was a nightmare. I really don’t understand how or why cities have decided to get rid of regular transport tickets. The ten-trip ticket has disappeared, and buying a one-way was prohibitive. Considering how many trips we would get, it made sense to get a 72-hour tourist ticket, since it was impossible to register to get a normal card… I also organised where to leave the luggage, since the hotel is next to the venue, and that is more than a bit out…

Spoiler alert though: we did not get pick-pocketed nor robbed, unless you count the insane tourist tax at the hotel, and we did not take forever to do the check-in.

27th March 2025: The Raven Age at ReviLive (Madrid, Spain)

Sometimes one has to wonder what guides music promoters to make certain decisions. It would be interesting to be aware of factors like costs of renting a venue, fuel, ticketing and so on. Because on occasion, it feels like tour schedules are suboptimal from all angles – acknowledging the lack of information. In the case of The Forsaken Tour by The Raven Age featuring Disconnected, I think that the most important factor that was considered was minimising bus-tour kilometres. Unfortunately, that placed their Madrid show on a Thursday, in a venue which… I’m pretty sure was inconvenient for everyone but myself.

The Raven Age is an English heavy metal band formed in 2009 by guitarists George Harris and Dan Wright – though Wright has since left the band. Current members are Harris and Tommy Gentry on guitars, Matt Cox on bass and backing vocals, Jai Patel on drums, and Matt James (MJ) on lead vocals. They have released three studio albums, and supported Iron Maiden, Anthrax and Apocalyptica during the Apocalyptica Plays Metallica Vol 2 Tour 2024. Though I saw Artics supporting that tour, my friend A****d saw The Raven Age and highly recommended them – actually she was the one who informed me of the upcoming tour and the Madrid date and place.

The Raven Age Tour Schedule

The concert was held in ReviLive, a concert and party venue associated with the musical studio ReviRock, which provides recording equipment, sets, rehearsal spaces… It is located near the Vicálvaro train station and Puerta de Arganda underground stop in Madrid. Unfortunately, it’s pretty far out from most commuting hubs. I had first thought about driving there, but my Sat-Nav has been failing lately. Furthermore, I did not feel comfortable parking and walking around the area – not the best – without knowing my way.

Since Vicálvaro was close and the way was rather straightforward, I decided to drive to a nearby station, then take a high-frequency train. But in the end, that day I had a headache, so I wanted to drive as little as possible. That meant risking it with the trains. I had previously checked finishing times and with doors at 19:00, I should be out at 22:30 latest. I had no intention to queue, so I took a train that arrived at the station around 18:50. That got me to the venue at 19:05. I was all right with staying back, but the crowd was so small that I found a spot at the barrier… And I was not wearing barrier shoes, at all. The good thing of a small side-lined venue is that security is nicer – and you are allowed to do outrageous things like bringing in your water bottle.

Supporting act throughout the tour was the French artists Disconnected, an independent French progressive metal band. Formed in 2016, it features Ivan Pavlakovic on vocals, Adrian Martinot and Florian Merindol on guitars, Romain Laure on Bass and Amaury Pastorelli on drums.

Doors ended up being at 19:30, not at 19:00, which was mean to the poor fans that had been there since early, particularly the meet & greet ones. I have to admit I did check for M&G tickets, but found no way to get them, else I would have. Maybe they were fanclub-only, I don’t know. I was hoping the venue would fill up more – similarly to La Riviera, where the crowd (that I’ve seen) skips the supporting act and drips in without queuing.

At 19:50, Disconnected started their act, and it was quite all right. What was unfortunately not so good was the sound. For such an empty venue, it was a pity, because it was not as if there was a roar from the attendees. The vocalist had great energy, and he was fun – though painfully aware of how few people there were. They sang in English and French, but the ratty sound made it a bit difficult to follow.

Disconnected’s setlist:
  1. Living incomplete
  2. I Fall Again
  3. The Wish
  4. La Puissance
  5. Unstoppable
  6. A World of Futile Pains
  7. Life Will Always Find Its Way
  8. We Carry On

The Raven Age Madrid Concert: Disconnected

The Raven Age Madrid Concert: Disconnected

Unfortunately, the venue had not filled up when it was time for the main act, and that was a bit sad. Despite the ongoing sound problems and the small crowd, The Raven Age had a great presence. The music did not sound as powerful as what I had been listening online though, and I am sure that they did not have any tea in their thermos bottles…

The Raven Age’s setlist:
  1. The Guillotine
  2. Promised Land
  3. Forgive & Forget
  4. Nostradamus
  5. Surrogate
  6. The Face That Launched A Thousand Ships
  7. Scimitar
  8. The Day The Earth Stood Still
  9. Essence of Time
  10. The Journey
  11. Seventh Heaven
  12. Angel in Disgrace
  13. Serpent’s Tongue
  14. Grave of the Fireflies
  15. Fleur de Lis

The Raven Age Madrid Concert: The Raven Age

It was extremely amusing to hear a heavy metal singer with such a strong British accent, talking in a natural way and dropping swearwords without sweating them. The members seemed to be quite happy taking over all the stage, and there was a lot of interaction, which is always good and fun. Unfortunately, considering that promoter was giving tickets away, I don’t think I’ll ever have the chance to see them close to home again.

The act was not long. They started at 20:50 and finished at 22:10, so it was a relatively short show, but it went by really fast. There was no real encore, because MJ said “this is the time when we go backstage, you guys yell for more, we come back and sing some more, so we’re going to skip all that and go on.” I approve of that.

The Raven Age Madrid Concert: The Raven Age

The Raven Age Madrid Concert: The Raven Age

The Raven Age Madrid Concert: The Raven Age

The Raven Age Madrid Concert: The Raven Age

The whole event had a weird atmosphere from start to end – the lack of a queue, the… chairs outside so we could wait… The… “hey, hold my spot, I’m going to change into this merch shirt I just got” and “Sure, but then hold mine while I go to the toilet” conversations… And especially, the lack of people. I really hoped that there would be more concertgoers after 20:00, and at least some more enthusiasm. When I saw Kamijo in Barcelona there was a small crowd, but it was loud. Here, it was lukewarm. I felt a bit heartbroken for the bands, because they both did a great job.

The train I was supposed to take back did not pass, so I had to wait almost 45 minutes at the Vicálvaro station. That was not fun because the only seats were in the open platform and my lower back hurt – bad choice of shoes. It was extremely cold, too, so I just huddled on a bench, and it felt good when the train finally came. I got to my car just before midnight, and home soon after. I was so tired I almost hit the kerb on my last curve, so it is good that I did not drive back and forth on the speedway, actually.

All in all, I enjoyed the day, the supporting act, and the concert. Would I travel abroad for The Raven Age? Probably not. Will I buy their CDs when I have money to spare? Probably yes. Although I keep getting sidetracked by activities and places to see and burning through my fun budget… Just you wait until there is a concert somewhere I want to visit, and I’ll be taking this whole “not travelling for The Raven Age” back.

22nd March 2025: The Historical Flow of River Henares (Guadalajara, Spain)

The presence of the anticyclone over Great Britain created an unusual rainy March in the centre of Spain, with four storms hitting almost back to back. An average March in Guadalajara sees 4.9 days of rain. Between the 1st and 25th of March 2025, it rained for 21 days. Storms Jana, Konrad, Laurence and Martinho delivered rainfall not seen in the area for 30 years or so.

Rain is measured using gauges and in a unit of “millimetres” – one millimetre of rain is equivalent to one litre of water per square metre. The average rainfall in the Guadalajara area is around 46 litres per square metre for the whole month of March. This four-storm period left over 150 litres per square metre. That’s a lot of rain on rain – dark clouds, soaked soil, wind blowing off the cherry plum blossoms (Prunus cerasifera).

Prune flowers in the storm

Guadalajara was built on the river Río Henares a tributary of a tributary of river Tagus. The Henares sprouts out of the mountain range Sierra Minsitra and runs about 160 km with a variable average flow between 10 and 40 cubic metres per second. The flow of the river and its tributaries is heavily regulated by the presence of a network of reservoirs in the area, designed to fight the cyclical droughts in central Spain, an arid plateau known as La Meseta (The Plateau). There are sixteen reservoirs in the province of Guadalajara, ten of them actively monitored. In March 2025, it rained so much that six of them (Alcorlo, Atance, Beleña, El Vado, La Tajera and Pálmaces) reached critical capacity and their floodgates had to be open, which dumped more water into the already “fattened” river. Furthermore, it was already thawing season, and the little snow that was on the peaks had started melting…

The result? The flow was up to over 300 cubic metres per second. That… is a lot. Official sources say that the water level increased by 40 cm, which of course caused the river to jump its usual banks. Along Guadalajara, this was mostly seen around the 10th century bridge Puente Califal (though other rivers were scary to cross). The structure was originally an Arab bridge, probably dating to the times of Abd al-Rahman III (Abd al-Rahmán ibn Muhámmad [عبد الرحمن بن محمد‎], 891 – 961 CE), though it was repeatedly damaged and repaired later on, particularly during the reign of Carlos III in the 18th century.

The bridge was built in ashlar masonry using a common technique from Al-Andalus architecture, stretcher and header soga y tizón, which means laying a layer of ashlar so the long side is outwards, then a layer so the short side is outwards, with the widest area always horizontal. The structure is almost 120 metres long, with five arches and four pillars, so thick that one of them allows for a spillway. Normally, only three of these arches are above water, allowing for most of the arch to be seen. This is a 2021 photograph which shows the usual situation underneath the bridge.

The normal state of the bridge - the low areas are dry, and only three arches have water running underneath

The humble bridge became the city’s most important tourist attraction during the storms period, as the river swelled and the water rose. Since I was in the area for work, I decided that I had to take a look. It was impressive. The water roared, and it had jumped the banks around the “park” area that has been built, along the footpaths.

Stone structure alongside the bridge, with water covering everything

Puente Califal Guadalajara during the March 2025 floods

River Henares underneath the Arab bridge

River Henares underneath the Arab bridge

Wideview of the Bridge, banks burst

9th March 2025: Expominerales 2025, the other half of the weekend’s plans (Madrid, Spain)

Since I had to be in Madrid to watch the fantastic concert by the Wiener Sängerknaben, the plan had been to attend the yearly Expominerales mineral fair in the Mine and Energy Engineering School Escuela Técnica Superior de Ingenieros de Minas y Energía (ETSIME) that same day. However, the fair closes on Saturdays between 14:00 and 16:00 for a lunch break, so since the weather was so horrid, I decided not to wait. On Sunday, the weather forecast was slightly less miserable, and in the end I was lucky with only some gentle rain as I walked between the train station and the Engineering School, nothing like the sleet deluge the previous day.

Expominerales fills the ETSIME with stalls selling minerals, fossils and crystals offered by reputable sellers. Here I’ve seen the biggest megalodon teeth in my life, held a plesiosaur vertebra – which I regret not buying when I had the chance – and discovered that moldavite exists – and which I regret not buying when I had the chance… do you spot a pattern here? I did not break it anyway, because in the end I cannot afford most of what is sold, and I already own most of what I can…

Overlook of ETSIME during Expominerales

I arrived at the School shortly after the exhibit opened around 10:00, and the area was still pretty empty. There were fewer stands than the previous years I’ve been there, and the moldavite stand was not there. Actually, there were very few meteorite-related stands this time around. I did see amazing modern-times frog fossils from Owens Lake. Owens Lake is called Patsiata in the Mono Native American language. In 1913, the lake dried out when the water from the Owens River was redirected and with years it has become a deadly salt flat, a source of alkali sand storms with a side of carcinogen materials. One of the minerals found in Owens Lake is trona, a crystal formed by the precipitation of sodium carbonate, making it a type of evaporite. In 2023, an atmospheric river caused floods in California, filling the lake up for the first time in over a century. The floods damaged infrastructure and created a surge of floodwater to the lake, which eroded surfaces and dragged a lot of small hibernating animals towards the lake, where they were killed instantly. Their soft tissues were quickly replaced by trona salt before the bodies even decomposed, creating a perfect cast of the poor critters. There were two on display at Expominerales and they were creepy!

Something else that caught my eye (and was actually within my doable price range) was a polished abalone shell. The Korean abalone (Haliotis discus) has been used for centuries in the art of najeonchilgi [나전칠기], which refers to decorating items with mother of pearl. The abalone can be polished in full, creating a whole iridescent body of nacre. These mollusks used to be collected by haenyeo [해녀], traditional female divers from the Jeju province, but most of them are farmed for food today. A small polished abalone came home with me.

Items from Expominerales

The School opens its classic museum during the exhibit, and I always enjoy visiting it. However, after wandering around for a bit (and spending some money), I moved onto what basically is the next building over to the ETSIME, the Spanish Mining and Geology Institute IGME – Instituto Geológico y Minero de España, which hosts the Geomineral Museum Museo Geominero. The original design of the building was conceived by Francisco Javier de Luque, and work started in 1921. Though a congress was held there in 1925, construction went on until 1941. The building has not been extensively restored, but it presents deviations from the original plans, and even from subsequent ones.

The museum is hosted in the former hall, and to get there, first you have to go through a very bored security guard – who first asked if I was sure I wanted to be there. Once inside the building, one goes up the main staircase towards the gallery underneath a glass-and-iron skylight with the logo of the Mining Institute. It was designed by Luque himself and created by the Madrid workshop La Veneciana, a glassware shop dating from 1876 and which, under a different name, still exists today.

Entrance staircase to the Geomineralogical museum

The museum is an open area, located underneath another incredible skylight. The displays are hosted in wooden cabinets in the main floor. The upper balconies can be accessed through spiral staircases and are protected by metalwork railings. One of the details I absolutely adore are the glassworks displaying geological sample cores of different surveys. I’ve never seen the library, but I was once part of a group which was allowed to play with some of the “lesser value” items they have as part of a training session, and that was super fun. The museum is probably one of my favourite spots in town.

The Geomineralogical Museum

From the architecture point of view, I like the building and the skylights. However, there are way more things to love in the museum, such as the wooden cabinets, full with samples of minerals, fossils and meteorites. The museum’s collection are divided into “Mineralogy and Petrology”, “Flora and Invertebrate fossils from Spain”, “Vertebrate fossils from Spain”, “Foreign fossils”, “Systematic invertebrate palaeontology”, “Micro-palaeontology”, “Fossil resin”, “Fossil tracks”, “Stromatolites”, and the “special exhibits”. One of these is a complete cavern bear (Ursus spelaeus), another one is an Ibex (Capra ibex). The last two have honour spots, with their own display.

When you come into the museum, one of the first things that you see, in front of the door, up on the first-floor balcony, is the cast of the most complete Tyrannosaurus rex skull ever found – Stan. Specimen BHI 3033, Stan, was found in 1987 and excavated in 1992, in South Dakota’s Hell Creek Formation. Stan lived around 65 million years ago, in the Cretaceous period. We know he fought for his life more than once – his ribs were broken and healed, two vertebrae were fused together, and he suffered a bite to his snout. Stan remains one of the most complete skeletons ever found, and probably the most-often cast. The skeleton made mainstream news when it was auctioned at Christie’s in New York due to money disputes among partners of the original owner-firm, Black Hills Institute. An anonymous buyer paid $31.8 million for it in October 2020. In 2022 it was disclosed that the Department of Culture and Tourism of Abu Dhabi had bought Stan for their projected new Natural History Museum.

On the ground floor there is a mastodon fossil Anancus arvernensis found in the 1990s. These animals related to modern elephants lived throughout the Miocene and went extinct in the Early Pliocene (two million years ago). The could have been around the size of a modern African bush elephants, but their tusks were mostly straight. They would have lived in steppe with dry and warm climate, but close to water. The fossilised bones were recovered are dated around 3.2 million years ago, and were dug from the Las Higueruelas site between 1948 and 1991.

Exhibits at the Museo Geominero

After I wandered the museum for a while, I left towards my train which was delayed… 43 minutes. Fortunately, so were the ones that had to pass before, so I ended catching one in the right direction after only a twenty-minute wait. And then I got junk food, because some days have to end in junk food…

8th March 2025: Wiener Sängerknaben Spain Tour, half of a weekend’s plan (Madrid, Spain)

Where should I get to see the Vienna Boy’s choir Wiener Sängerknaben? Vienna? Of course not! Madrid, of course. We did try to see them in their home town, but it did not work out, because they sang before we arrived, and while we were on our way to the airport on the day we left. However, chance wanted that their Schubert Choir Schubertchor would be touring Spain in March, and Madrid would be their first stop. We got good tickets by a hair’s breadth, because my parents do not believe in booking in advance – nor in me booking for everyone – but we got them, literally last row of stalls.

Nobody knows exactly when the historical Wiener Sängerknaben was established, but there are records of boys singing at the Imperial Chapel back in 1296, even before the chapel was in Vienna. The Boys Choir just performed for the Court until 1918, when the Austria-Hungary Empire collapsed. In 1924, the institution was re-established as a private non-profit. It remained boys-only until 2004, when the Girls Choir Wiener Chormädchen was founded.

The boys attend their own campus from primary to senior high school. There are 100 choristers divided in four choirs (Bruckner, Haydn, Mozart and Schubert), each of which tours for around 10 weeks per school year. They perform High Mass in the chapel of the Imperial Palace every Sunday as part of an ensemble called Hofmusikkapelle (Court Music Orchestra), formed by the boys and members of the choir and orchestra of the Vienna State Opera (Wiener Staatsope).

As part of those ten-week tours, it was announced that in 2025 the Schubert Choir would tour South Korea, Spain, Switzerland and Italy. In Spain, they were to perform four special concerts in Madrid, Seville, Alicante and Valencia. The Madrid show took place at 11:00 in the national auditorium Auditorio Nacional de Música. The auditorium was designed by architect José María García de Paredes and it opened in 1988. The largest music hall can host over 2400 spectators.

Auditorio Nacional, inside and out

The Schubertchor has 22 members from all over the world – though most are Austrian, others come from China, Croatia, the Czech Republic, England, Germany, Hungary, Japan, South Korea and Ukraine. The boys’ names are not released, but they were touring with Peruvian conductor Andy Icochea Icochea, who had previously worked in the Wiener Sängerknaben between 2005 and 2011. Icochea seems to have specialised in training young choristers, and has had a long career with different choirs and orchestras, even with a music charity. He has collaborated with other directors such as Riccardo Muti, who conducted the 2024 Silvesterkontzert / 2025 New Year’s concert in Vienna.

The day of the concert started raining buckets, but we had decided to try public transport instead of driving to the area where the Auditorio Nacional de Música stands. Afterwards, we wanted to have lunch and head to Expominerales, which was held that same weekend. We arrived with plenty of time, and we had to find a café to pass the time until doors opened. Once that happened, it was a bit of a chaos of umbrellas and everybody trying to push in at the same time. If you think young people get excited before a concert, they’ve got nothing on senior citizens.

At 11:00 sharp, even before the hall had completely filled up – doors had opened kind of late in my opinion, less than half hour in advance – the children and the director came out. People were still being admitted during for the first couple of songs, and the auditorium staff were harassing patrons about where they had placed their jackets, or whether they were in their correct seats, well into the show. It was weird, and a bit disrespectful, those details should have been sorted beforehand. However, the concert itself were amazing. Most of it was sung a capella, and only a piano was used for accompanying the choristers in several songs, played by Icochea himself.

Vienna Boys' Choir Madrid

Setlist:
  First part:
    1. Kaiser-Walzer, Op. 437 (Emperor Waltz), composed by Johan Strauß II, with lyrics by Victor Gombocz and arranged by Gerald Wirth.
    2. Der Wassermann (The Water Genie), composed by Robert Schumann, with lyrics by Justinus Kerner.
    3. Hebe deine Augen auf zu den Bergen (Lift thine eyes), trio from Elias, Op. 70 (The Prophet Elijah), composed by Felix Mendelssohn from the lyrics of Psalm 121:1-4.
    4. Die Meere, Op. 20 No. 3 (The Seas), composed by Johannes Brahms
    5. Psalm 23, D.706, composed by Franz Schubert with Germany lyrics by Moses Mendelssohn.
    6a. Nun stehen die Rosen in Blüte (Now the roses have bloomed) from Der Jungbrunnen, Op. 44 (The Fountain of Youth) composed by Johannes Brahms with lyrics by Paul Heyse.
    6b. Die Berge sind spitz (The mountains are pointed) from Der Jungbrunnen, Op. 44 (The Fountain of Youth) composed by Johannes Brahms with lyrics by Paul Heyse.
    6c. Am Wildbach die Weiden (The willows beside the stream) from Der Jungbrunnen, Op. 44 (The Fountain of Youth) composed by Johannes Brahms with lyrics by Paul Heyse.
    6d. Und gehst du über den Kirchhof (And if you walk across the churchyard) from Der Jungbrunnen, Op. 44 (The Fountain of Youth) composed by Johannes Brahms with lyrics by Paul Heyse.
    7. Inclina Domine aurem tuam ad me, Op. 118 (Incline your ear, Lord, to me), Josef Gabriel Rheinberger (Psalm 86).
    8. Erlkonig (The Elven King) composed by Franz Schubert, with lyrics by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, arranged by Oliver Gies.
    9. Sängerslust, Polka française, Op. 328 (Singer’s Joy, French Polka), composed by Johann Strauß II with lyrics by Joseph Weil.
    10. Wiener Blut, Walzer Op. 354 (Viennese Spirit), composed by Johann Strauß II, arranged by Helmuth Froschauer.
  Second part:
    11. 아리랑 [Arirang] (impossible to translate, but it might have meant “My beloved one” in Ancient Korean), arranged by Gerald Wirth, a traditional Korean love song from the Kyonggi Do province, with over 60 variations.
    12. Vreneli abem Guggisberg (Vreneli from Guggisberg), Swiss folk song arranged by Gerald Wirth.
    13. Müsle gang ga schlofa (Go to sleep, little mouse). Cradle song from Vorarlberg, Austria with lyrics by Walter Weinzierl, arranged by Gerald Wirth.
    14. Unz Wättr isch winti (Until the weather is windy), written by Luis Stefan Stecher like an Italian folk song, with music by by Ernst Thoma.
    15. O more duboko (Oh, deep sea), Croatian folk song, arranged by Gerald Wirth.
    16. La Paloma (The Dove), Spanish habanera by Sebastián Yradier, arranged by Gerald Wirth.
    17. Chim Chim Cher-ee from Mary Poppins (1964 film), by Richard M. Sherman and Robert B. Sherman, arranged by Christi Cary Miller.
    18. What Was I Made For? from Barbie (2023 film), by Billie Eilish O’Connell and Finneas O’Connell, arranged by Jennifer Lucy Cook.
    19. Under the Sea from The Little Mermaid (1989 film), by Alan Menken and Howard Ashman, arranged by Kirby Shaw.
    20. For ever, Polka schnell, Op. 193 (Forever, Fast Polka) by Josef Strauß, arranged by Gerald Wirth with English lyrics by Tina Breckwoldt.
    21. An der schönen blauen Donau, Op. 314 (The Blue Danube), composed by Johann Strauß II, with lyrics by Franz von Gernerth (1821-1900) and arranged Gerald Wirth.
  Encore
    22. Radetzky-Marsch, Op. 228 (Radetzky March), by Johann Strauß I, arranged by Gerald Wirth.
    23. Un Elefante Se Balanceaba (An elephant swung), Spanish children counting song, probably arranged by Icochea.

Charming does not even come close to describing the show. I’d never understood the concept of “angelic voices” until now, and I found it really unfair that you can’t actually find out the names of the boys. I don’t know whether it is to protect their privacy as they are minors, but it would have been great to at least know the names of the soloists, because the powerful voices from those little bodies was amazing.

The children were organised by tone of voice, which was similar to size, with the highest voices (smallest boys) on the front left and the lowest voices (biggest kids) on the back right. They sang most of their numbers towards the stalls, but for one song they turned to the people behind them, to both sides of the organ. Highlights included any time a child sang a solo – particularly the first one during the Emperor Waltz, as people were still coming in. During another song, Icochea left the stage for another boy to direct.

Vienna Boys' Choir Madrid

The oldest boy was in charge of having the audience clap during the Radetzky March, just like in the New Year’s Concert – and he looked right at that age when teens are all knees and elbows and awkwardness, but he seemed to be extremely proud of himself (well deserved!).

The last song of the encore was a total surprise. Before it started, the director invited us to “sing along if we were familiar with it”. This unexpected performance was a Spanish counting song, Un Elefante Se Balanceaba (An elephant swung), which goes “one elephant swung on a spiderweb – as it saw it did not fall down, it went to call another elephant. Two elephants swung on a spiderweb – as they saw they did not fall down, they went to call another elephant. Three elephants…” you get the idea – not precisely a philosophical song, but way less traumatic than say Hush little baby. One of the boys walked to the front and made a sort of trunk with one of his arms as he “swung” to the music. One by one, the others joined him until the proverbial spiderweb snapped and down to the floor all the children went. It was absolutely hilarious, and adorable.

Vienna Boys' Choir Madrid

Vienna Boys' Choir Madrid singing the elephant song

It was still raining heavily when we left the auditorium. It was 13:15, so no real time to get to Expominerales before it closed between 14:00 and 16:00. Had the weather been nicer (decent, at the very least), I would have found something else to do before it re-opened. But it was still raining cats and dogs – and maybe some ice – so we just decided to call it a (half) day.