26th May 2026: Schönbrunn, Sacher, airport, jam {Vienna & day trips, May 2026}

As neither D****e nor I left Vienna until the evening, we had almost half a day to do anything we felt like. We decided to head out to Schloss Schönbrunn, the Schönbrunn (Beautiful Spring) Palace, or the “summer palace” of the Habsburgs. It is a Unesco World Heritage Site established in 1996, Palace and Gardens of Schönbrunn, independent from the Viena Historic Centre. The current complex comprises a massive Baroque Palace (who needs over 1,400 rooms??), the world’s oldest zoo, a large garden, a secondary palace (now a restaurant), several conservatories or greenhouses, a monumental fountain and way too many squirrels to count (not as part of the zoo).

We checked out and left the luggage at reception. I grabbed a coffee on the way and we rode the underground towards the palace. It took a bit, but we were at the entrance a few minutes before they opened, beating the buses and the ticket-buying queues. I stayed at the shop for a bit and found a nice Lipizzaner Christmas ornament. We got our tickets and went towards the entry, where we did have to wait a few minutes, until they opened.

Most of the palace is either Baroque or Rococo, so after a while the rooms feel a bit heavy. If the Hofburg is all about Sissi, however, the Schönbrunn is for Empress Maria Theresa of Habsburg (1717 – 1780). This makes the timeline a bit confusing, as wherever you are, you get a name, and then their relationship with her. It also makes sense as it was during her reign that the palace took its present form. It is important to note that she was Empress in her own right after her father died. Maria Theresa was Archduchess of Austria, Queen of Hungary, Croatia and Slovenia, Queen of Bohemia (which at the time included Slovakia and Bratislava), Queen of Galicia and Lodomeria, Holy Roman Empress, and a couple of more Consort-titles at different times during her life between 1736 and her death in 1780.

The history of the palace becomes intertwined with the park that surrounds it, which was originally conceived as hunting grounds in 1569. The first residence was established in 1637. During Maria Theresa’s reign, everything was expanded and a lot of it remodelled – the palace, the court, the gardens, the decoration… After the downfall of the Habsburgs in 1918, the Palace became a museum owned by the Austrian Republic, and so it remains today.

We purchased Palace Tickets, which cover most of the palace. It starts with a computerised presentation when the palace itself talks to you, and then you move onto the main floor, including the bedrooms and the state rooms. The huge Great Gallery was my favourite ward of them all, along with the so-called Millions Room (though living in it might have been a little claustrophobic). There were also some rooms with interesting Chinois motifs – the two Chinese Cabinets and the Vieux Laque Room, with lacquer panels literally brought from China. The Porcelain Room was a little creepy though, and so was the Rich Room, which just displayed Maria Theresa’s state bed.

Baroque palace with luxurious rooms

It was way too scorching for the garden, but still we braved the sun though the Great Parterre until we reached the Neptune Fountain, a large decorative sculpture group centred around the Roman god of the ocean and his chariot. Afterwards, we continued through the wooded area until we reached the Gloriette, now a cosy café, and cooped up with people. On our way down, we took a small detour to the Rose Garden and the iron-and-glass Palm House – and if you know me, you’d guess I loved that one the most. We did not have time to explore if our tickets allowed us to go in, though. Furthermore, I am not sure going into a greenhouse at that point would have been wise…

Fountain with Greek Gods and a monument in the background

Garden with fountains and roses

Large greenhouse made of iron and glass

We headed towards the Historic Centre of Vienna, because D****e had made reservations at the Blaue Bar (Blue Bar), one of the inner spaces at Hotel Sacher, at noon. We were there a bit early (entered past 11:50) and the bar was not open yet. Therefore, to apologise because we had arrived before the bar was due to open, and hence it was not open yet, we were treated to an apology carton of mineral water and got to wait at the lounge with all the rich people. It was bizarre!

As the name hints, the Blue Bar is decorated with blue fabric on the wall. It has small tables – maybe six, which makes for an intimate ambience. It features chandeliers and a small bar where Hyde had posed for pictures, which was the reason why D****e wanted to go there.

Once the it opened, we had the room for ourselves for about 40 minutes, which was amazing. We were taken care of by the manager himself, Stephan Plessl, who did an outstanding job. I felt like royalty, to be honest. There is a rumour that workers at Hotel Sacher will never say no to a guest, but we were just two random people popping in for a drink (and probably not even adhering to the dress code). And I stand witness that we were not told no at any point.

Sacher hotel façade and interior

We decided to start with a mocktail each, since it felt appropriate to have a toast with something cool but neither of us drinks alcohol. I went with the Sunrise (red fruit tea, thyme, lemon, elderflower and orange espuma). Then we shared an Original Wiener Schnitzel (breaded suckling veal cut with potato, lettuce salad and pumpkin seed oil. For some reason there is a… vegan option available?), Original Sacher Sausages (Original Sacher Würstel, with horseradish, mustard and a bread roll), and ended with a piece of Sacher-torte. The manager also let us take photos to our hearts’ contents, took pictures of us, and let us take all the disposable mementos along – such as the coaster and mayo / ketchup jars. When D****e asked him if she could check out another room to find a portrait of Hyde there, he offered to come and “search together” (it had been in one area, but then got moved). We suspected the manager knew who Hyde was because he had been staying there. Our suspicions were later corroborated – not only did the singer eventually tweet about it, hotel itself ran a special interview with him.

Blue bar and lunch

We still had a couple of hours before I had to head for the airport. After a stop at Buggarten, we ended up back at the outer ring, walked by the Parliament Parlament Österreich and the Athena fountain Pallas-Athene-Brunnen and ended up at the Neogothic Votive Church Votivkirche, which was open! As the sun was shining, the coloured glass windows made it for a very beautiful effect. On our way back to the hotel, we passed by Kirche Maria am Gestade (Mary at the Riverbank). Then we headed towards the station, where each of us had a train within 20 minutes’ time of the other to take us to our next destination. In my case, it was the airport.

Treble clef made of flowers planted in front of a Mozart statue

Neo gothic church with pointy towers and arched vaults

I was so focused on electronics and the carton of water from the Sacher that I was extra careful when putting my things out for security. The carton was empty, the camera was out, so were the phones… and then my luggage got flagged. A very unfriendly lady with her hand on her weapon demanded that I took out the device at the bottom of my backpack. I was flabbergasted – there was literally no device in my backpack, but that is the word she kept using. In the 15 seconds or so it took me to realise what it was, two other guards came to flank her, and I wondered in a mini-panic if someone could have snuck something in my luggage. Then I saw the X-Ray – whatever had them worried was a very reflective vaguely cubical box – and I had an epiphany. What was at the bottom of my backpack? A box of very shiny and reflective Swarovski crystals. I always do my best not to antagonise security, but I said something along the lines of “I cannot be the first person to take Swarovski crystals out of the country!” and “Those are not forbidden!” I mean, I was baffled. I was eventually let through (with my crystals) and it took me a bit to reorganise all my stuff back into the backpack.

I had the last of the sandwiches I had bought the day before for dinner, and got myself another Christmas bauble. The plane ride was uneventful and my parent had come to pick me up, so the ride home should have been smooth. Unfortunately, someone had thought it would be a great idea to close off the highway, without actually announcing it. Instead, they tried to funnel out of the same exit, which caused a huge traffic jam. Once we cleared that one out though, the rest of the drive went fine. A bit of an anticlimactic ending, don’t you think? All in all, it was a great trip. I did feel a couple of times that I was not “as much of a fan” as I ought to be, especially when surrounded by people who had made the trip from Japan. I got to eat a lot of good schnitzels, too, and Sacher-torte. I did miss a couple of things I would have liked to do, but there will be another chance, I hope. I enjoyed the concert, got to see cool stuff, and had fun.

I can only hope I’ve reached my quota of stupid airport security issues by now…

22nd May 2026: Airports and libraries {Vienna & day trips, May 2026}

Of course, when the drive to the airport is smooth and you avoid the worst of the daily traffic jam, something else happens. This time around, it was a security-check screw-up. The lady had decided that every item needed a different tray – it was unthinkable that a backpack and a fanny pack could coexist in the same space. Unfortunately, the tray system had broken down and was not moving. Travellers got stuck explaining “there are no trays” while she yelled “one item per tray” in a never-ending cycle that took at least five minutes to break.

My plane left at 8:40 and I landed in Viena a few minutes ahead of schedule, around 11:30. That gave me enough time to reach the train station and take the 12:19 S7 train to Rennweg, which was the very convenient station next to the hotel (I had booked something near a transport hub; the fact that it had a direct connection to the airport was direct was a plus we discovered later). I got myself a snack, and walked to the hotel to check in and meet D****e, who had arrived a few hours earlier. After she had freshened up, we headed towards the Austrian National Library Österreichische Nationalbibliothek while she told me that she had come on the same flight as Hyde, and gave me updates on all her Japanese friends’ status as they converged onto Austria.

As we walked, we entered the Unesco Heritage Site Historic Centre of Vienna, recognised in 2001 and placed in the List of World Heritage in Danger in 2017, due to urbanistic pressure. One of the main elements in the Viennese architecture is the Hofburg, the main imperial palace of the Habsburgs in Austria. At the end of WWI in 1918, the Austria-Hungary Empire came to an end, and since then the palace has been repurposed – different parts of it may be visited, such as Sisi’s quarters, the Riding School, or the library itself (and all its branches).

The seed of Austrian National Library Österreichische Nationalbibliothek dates back to Emperor Karl VI (Charles VI), who established the court library around 1739. The building was erected in the Baroque style, designed by Johann Fischer von Erlach. Its main feature is the State Hall Prunksall, which houses the book collection amassed by the Habsburgs, particularly some 15,000 books belonging to Prince Eugene of Savoy. The library hosts around 200,000 volumes in dark walnut cases that reach the ceilings, decorated with frescoes. The floors are marble, and here and there stand world globes and sculptures by Lorenzo Mattielli. Oh, and there are secret doors within the shelves that lead to hidden rooms. We only visited the State Hall that day, but I would come back to the Papyrus Museum on Monday.

Classical library

A couple of days prior to our arrival, Hyde had tweeted (or whatever) that there were posters of his show throughout Vienna. One of them was easy to find – it had the Neogothic Votive Church Votivkirche in the background. D****e wanted to find them all, and I wanted to see the church, which was unfortunately closed. Also unfortunately, it seemed that all the weather forecasts for the few days I’d be in town had been… wrong. Despite announcing mild spring temperatures, we got hit by a heatwave. I am okay with heat but… I did not have appropriate clothes for it so… whoops. Despite the weather, we walked a lot, and did a lot of checking for the posters as we did. We may have spotted around 20 or so (and only after the concert checked if we could unglue one).

I was getting a bit dizzy, so I suggested stopping for a snack. We sat at a McDonald’s Hyde ordered food from once, so it fit our theme. D****e had a map of locations that were more or less related to Hyde’s activities in town. Following that, we stumbled around the church Kirche Maria am Gestade. In front of it stood a figure of Minerva, holding a little owl in one hand, a crown in the other. I thought it was a street art installation, and I wondered about the placement, but it turns out to be something for the… European Congress of Radiology, which took place in March, and had a Classical gods and goddesses theme, maybe because there was a very important person there called Minerva Becker.

Kirche Maria am Gestade (Mary at the Riverbank) is a catholic church built in the Gothic style between 1394 and 1414. It is one of the few actual Gothic buildings in town, and was popular amongst sailors on the Danube – it stands on the former fluvial terrace of one of the now disappeared flows of the river. It is not a big church, with a narrow nave and a 56-metre tower slightly newer than the body of the church. It was a very pretty structure that I enjoyed a lot.

Gothic church on top of some stairs

We walked a little towards the town centre and ended up at Kohlmarkt, from where I got a view of Michaelerplatz and the Hofburg palace. We turned towards Graben to find the Column of Pest Wiener Pestsäule, a High Baroque column built to commemorate the victims of the plague epidemic of 1679. It was designed by Paul Strudel, but many other sculptors had a hand in it, apparently. Erected in white stone and gold, it represents from the highest level down, the Holy Trinity, the angels, King Leopold I, and his citizens.

Baroque commemorative column in marble and gold

Next, we visited the Baroque church Peterskirche (St. Peter’s church), built in the first third of the 18th century to replace and earlier Romanesque one. After two failed designs, the main architect was Francesco Martinelli, who drew inspiration from St Peter’s in the Vatican. Hence, it was the first domed building in Vienna. It is however very… small, erected in a very confined space in a crossroads, it feels cramped.

Baroque church

Eventually, we made our way towards Café Landtmann, which calls itself “Vienna’s most sophisticated coffee house” to have dinner with some of D****e’s friends who had also come from Japan. Though it is one of the iconic places in town (and also held a connection to Hyde, hence why they wanted to go), dinner was a mess. Five of us were crammed into a tiny booth, the eatery was bustling and there was barely any space. And jet-lagged excited Japanese is no way near understandable by my poor language skills. They decided they wanted to share everything, which I thought was a mistake – very little space, large plates difficult to share… But I’m not going to raise a ruckus out of food of all things. I’m just going to order an alcohol-free cocktail (actually a raspberry-lemon lemonade) that matches in price all the beer and alcohol they are going to order.

We shared „The Legend“ („Die Legende“: Viennese Schnitzel made from the finest cut of breaded veal, parsley potatoes, leaf salad, cranberry jam and a lemon wedge); Viennese Beef Goulash (Wiener Rindsgulasch, with bread dumpling, goulash crunch and pickled cucumber); White Asparagus (Spargel with beurre blanc, chives and buttered panko crumbs); Landtmann Sausages “à la bonne heure” (Landtmannwürstel à la bonne heure, boiled sausages in goulash jus with mustard mayo, horseradish, goulash crunch and a hand roll).

Different Austrian dishes

I ended up mostly eating the bread with the Schnitzel lemon and the salad. I had not realised the goulash would have so much garlic on it. Finally, they ordered coffee and Kaissermarn (shredded pancakes) as dessert. In the end, it was 40 bucks per person for a cramped mediocre experience. The staff was nice and people-watching interesting, from people super dolled-up because they were coming from / going to the opera, to ripped jeans.

We left and walked back to the hotel. After a long shower, we went to bed, but I did not sleep much and was definitely up at sunrise. That helped with the following day’s insane plans, which included breakfast…